Buzz Rickson Submariner Coat - Men's U.S. Navy Submarine Wool Jacket Reproduction BR15764 Charcoal
Regular price €494,48
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Buzz Rickson Submariner Coat - Men's U.S. Navy Submarine Wool Jacket Reproduction BR15764 Charcoal
Buzz Rickson
This men's casual wool jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson, a military wear-focused brand under Toyo Enterprises. The brand is renowned for its exceptional vintage reproduction garments, accessories, and signature craftsmanship. Part of Buzz Rickson's U.S. Navy collection, this model is a modern reproduction of the iconic Coat, Winter, Woolen - Submarine Clothing Winter Woolen U.S. Navy Uniform, commonly known as the Submariner Coat, originally issued to submarine crews. Expertly crafted with Buzz Rickson's hallmark attention to detail, it meticulously recreates the original's distinctive features, faithfully capturing the heritage and spirit of classic U.S. military tradition. Its timeless character reflects historical authenticity while working effortlessly with today's casual fashion, bridging vintage aesthetics and modern style. The fabric is made from 100% wool melton in a heavyweight 30-ounce herringbone twill (HBT) weave. Structurally, the jacket is unlined construction, and the interior seams are reinforced with binding tape (piping). The wool has a heathered (frosted) appearance, which adds visual depth and closely replicates the vintage texture of the original Navy-issued fabric. This wool coat features a single-breasted front with a six-button closure, utilizing MIL-spec four-hole urea buttons. The collar is convertible and can be worn either folded down or up as a stand collar. A buttoned throat latch is attached to the left side of the collar; when the collar is raised, the latch can be secured to a button on the inside of the right collar to protect the neck from cold air. When not in use, the throat latch can be neatly fastened to a button on the underside of the left collar to keep it out of the way. At the waist, there are two flap-covered pockets with button closures. For added reinforcement, the underside of each pocket flap is lined with cotton sheeting fabric. This item is offered in US/EU sizing and features a regular fit - neither too slim nor too loose - for a well-balanced silhouette. The unlined, single-layer construction minimizes bulk, resulting in a streamlined silhouette suitable for layering without added weight. This item is a brand-new, original creation from Buzz Rickson, combining vintage military aesthetics with the brand's signature high-quality craftsmanship.
Gender : Men.
Fit : This item is offered in US/EU sizing and features a regular fit - neither too slim nor too loose - for a well-balanced silhouette. The unlined, single-layer construction minimizes bulk, resulting in a streamlined silhouette suitable for layering without added weight. Please also refer to the following actual measurement of the garment itself to choose the right size. Fits may vary by style or personal preference.
Our model is wearing a tagged size 38. He is 5'11" (180 cm) tall, weighs 150 lbs (68 kg), and has a chest size of 38 inches (96 cm). He normally wears a US/EU size M or 38.
Available sizes.
･Tagged size 36 : would fit better on a US/EU size S or 36
･Tagged size 38 : would fit better on a US/EU size M or 38
･Tagged size 40 : would fit better on a US/EU size L or 40
･Tagged size 42 : would fit better on a US/EU size XL or 42
･Tagged size 44 : would fit better on a US/EU size XXL or 44
The following provides approximate garment measurements. (Not body measurements)
Please compare actual garment measurements of our product to another you may own.
In inches
･Tagged size 36__Width: 20.9"__Length: 26.4"__Sleeve: 31.5"(23.2")__Shoulder: 16.5"
･Tagged size 38__Width: 22.0"__Length: 28.0"__Sleeve: 32.7"(24.0")__Shoulder: 17.7"
･Tagged size 40__Width: 23.2"__Length: 29.1"__Sleeve: 34.3"(24.8")__Shoulder: 18.9"
･Tagged size 42__Width: 24.4"__Length: 30.3"__Sleeve: 34.6"(24.8")__Shoulder: 20.1"
･Tagged size 44__Width: 25.6"__Length: 31.1"__Sleeve: 35.4"(25.2")__Shoulder: 20.9"
In centimeters
･Tagged size 36__Width: 53cm__Length: 67cm__Sleeve: 80cm(59cm)__Shoulder: 42cm
･Tagged size 38__Width: 56cm__Length: 71cm__Sleeve: 83cm(61cm)__Shoulder: 45cm
･Tagged size 40__Width: 59cm__Length: 74cm__Sleeve: 87cm(63cm)__Shoulder: 48cm
･Tagged size 42__Width: 62cm__Length: 77cm__Sleeve: 88cm(63cm)__Shoulder: 51cm
･Tagged size 44__Width: 65cm__Length: 79cm__Sleeve: 90cm(64cm)__Shoulder: 53cm
Width refers to the half-chest measurement.
To measure, lay the garment flat and measure across from side to side, 3 cm below the armhole.
Sleeve length is measured from the center back at the base of the collar seam to the end of the cuff.
The sleeve length shown in parentheses is measured from the top of the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff.
Made in Japan.
Brand new, unworn condition with tags attached.
*All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat.
*Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur.
*Actual color may vary slightly from what appears in the photos.
Fabric: This garment is constructed from heavyweight, 30-ounce, 100% wool melton woven in a dense herringbone twill (HBT) pattern. The color is a deep charcoal gray, closely matching the original military issue. Structurally, the coat features an unlined design, with internal seams meticulously reinforced using binding tape (piping) for enhanced durability and reduced bulk. The wool fabric exhibits a heathered (frosted) finish, imparting visual complexity and accurately replicating the nuanced vintage texture characteristic of original U.S. Navy-issued garments. This coat is constructed from 100% natural wool, which, unlike synthetic fibers, possesses the inherent surface nap and fiber texture unique to woolen materials. Consequently, some individuals may perceive a degree of prickle or itchiness when the fabric is in direct contact with the skin. Additionally, due to friction between the coat and inner layers during wear, fiber migration or transference may occur, potentially resulting in the transfer of wool fibers onto other garments. Please be advised of these natural characteristics inherent to high-quality wool fabrics.
Front Closure: Single-breasted configuration with a six-button front placket, equipped with MIL-SPEC four-hole urea buttons for enhanced durability and heat resistance.
Collar Design: Convertible collar engineered to be worn either as a traditional fold-down collar or configured upright as a stand collar for additional protection.
Throat Latch (Chin Strap): Integrated buttoned throat latch (chin strap) on the left collar tip; when the collar is raised, the latch can be secured to a designated button on the inner right collar to shield the neck from wind and cold. When not in use, the throat latch can be discreetly fastened to a button on the underside of the left collar.
Cuff Type: Open, unbanded cuffs designed to allow an unrestricted range of motion and to facilitate easy layering.
Pockets: Two waist-level patch pockets with flap closures, each secured by a button. The reverse side of each pocket flap is reinforced with cotton sheeting fabric for increased structural integrity and abrasion resistance.
Pattern Type : Plain, solid color, basic, simple, blank.
Sleeve Style : Set-in sleeves.
Sleeve Length : Long sleeves.
Label : THIS LABEL IDENTIFIES A GARMENT MADE & SOLD UNDER AUTHORITY OF THE US. NAVY. REGULATION U.S.NAVY UNIFORM.
Other details : The collar has a neck strap (a chin strap, a throat tab, a throat latch) with buttons at each end that fastens across the neck when the collars of the jacket are upturned. You can also hide a neck strap (a chin strap, a throat tab) when not in use using a button inside. The overall aesthetic was stripped-down and utilitarian, prioritizing function and simplicity over decoration. The coat lacked insignia or extraneous detail. Construction: Unlined, taped seams. Unlined, piped seams (piping finish).
Model name : Lot No. BR15764 / SUBMARINE CLOTHING WINTER WOOLIN "U.S.NAVY UNIFORM" / BR15764 Buzz Rickson (Buzz Rickson's form Toyo Enterprises) Men's Wool Jacket - A modern reproduction of the US Navy Winter Woolen Submariner Coat / A contemporary revival of the U.S. Navy Uniform / Men's heritage-inspired reissue of the Military Button Front Wool Jacket / A faithful replica of the Submarine Clothing Winter Woolen U.S. Navy Uniform / (A successor model of BR13877).
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About U.S. Navy Submariner Coat - SUBMARINE CLOTHING WINTER WOOLIN “U.S.NAVY UNIFORM”
The U.S. Navy developed a range of specialized uniforms for its personnel, including specific cold-weather outerwear for submarine crews. Among these was a garment officially designated as the “Coat, Winter, Woolen”, now commonly referred to as the Submariner Coat. The exact origins of this coat remain unclear, but it was already listed in the U.S. Navy Uniform Regulations issued in 1941, and was supplied to submarine crew members who operated in the confined and often freezing conditions of underwater environments.
The coat was designed with functionality and simplicity in mind. Unlike the Navy’s standard peacoat, which was widely issued to surface fleet sailors, the Submariner Coat featured a more utilitarian design with minimal adornment, tailored specifically to the needs of crew members in the submarine service. It was produced using a dense wool fabric woven in a herringbone twill pattern, the coat offered exceptional wind resistance and thermal insulation.
However, by late 1941 and into 1942, the U.S. Navy began transitioning to newer designs such as the deck jacket (such as the early deck jackets featuring either zip-front or hook-front closures), and later the iconic N-1 deck jacket introduced around 1944. These newer garments offered more technical features and standardization across the Navy's ranks, leading to the Submariner Coat being phased out. As a result, the coat saw only limited production and issue, making it one of the rarest and most sought-after pieces in the history of U.S. Navy uniforms.
This reproduction model faithfully replicates the original in both construction details and materials, including authentic labeling, and fabric composition, to provide an accurate representation of the Submariner Coat worn by Navy submarine crew members.
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How to measure the clothing
Garment measurements ( Not body measurements )
How to measure the clothing
Body Width (Half Chest)
Lay the clothing flat and measure 3 cm under the armhole. Measure from side to side
Body Length
Lay the clothing flat and measure from base of collar seam (excluding collar) down to the end of the hem
Sleeve Length
Lay the clothing flat and measure from center back of base of collar seam to the end of the cuff
Shoulder Width
Lay the clothing flat and measure shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Lay Jeans/Pants flat, face up and do not stretch or pull fabric.
Waist
Measure flat across the back waistband from one side to the other with the natural dip. Double the number to get actual waist size.
Inseam
Measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg on the inside seam.
If you are unsure of the size to order, we will assist you. Please contact us by e-mail ( rodeo@mbf.nifty.com ) with the following information : Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, (and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time), as well as the type of fit you prefer : Trim, roomy or oversized.