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Buzz Rickson's Men's U.S. Marine Corps M-1944 (P-44) Reproduction Utility Jacket, 100% Cotton Herringbone Twill, Unlined, Relaxed Fit, Made in Japan (BR15123, 149 Olive)

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Buzz Rickson's Men's U.S. Marine Corps M-1944 (P-44) Reproduction Utility Jacket, 100% Cotton Herringbone Twill, Unlined, Relaxed Fit, Made in Japan (BR15123, 149 Olive)

Buzz Rickson's

This men's herringbone utility jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions of vintage American military clothing. Its design reproduces the M-1944 utility coat adopted by the U.S. Marine Corps in 1944 during World War II, also known as the M1944, P-1944, or P-44. The jacket recreates the period garment's fabric, panel construction, and distinctive functional details.

Made from 100% cotton herringbone twill in olive, the jacket combines two large front storage compartments with a separate flap-covered patch pocket layered over the left chest. Other characteristic details include a six-button front, an internal gas flap, two hood-attachment buttons beneath the collar, a single-panel back, and one-piece set-in sleeves with adjustable buttoned openings. Black-painted iron buttons and the printed USMC lettering and Eagle, Globe, and Anchor insignia complete the period-inspired appearance.

The classic relaxed fit provides room through the chest and a hip-length body with a straight, boxy outline. Its unlined construction keeps additional bulk to a minimum, allowing the texture and natural flexibility of the cotton herringbone fabric to remain prominent. Suitable for layering over T-shirts, shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies, the jacket retains the practical character of 1940s Marine Corps utility clothing in a form suited to contemporary casual wear.

Size and Fit Guide:

Gender: Men.

The jacket has a classic relaxed fit with a roomy chest and a hip-length body that provides coverage around the waist and hips. The sides fall straight from below the armholes toward the hem, creating the generous, boxy silhouette associated with 1940s military utility jackets. Set-in sleeves connect to defined shoulder seams and follow naturally from the shoulder line.

The cut allows comfortable space around the body, reflecting the movement and practicality associated with utility clothing. With repeated wear and laundering according to the care label, the cotton herringbone twill gradually settles and becomes more familiar to the wearer. Changes in the fabric surface and around the stitched areas contribute to the jacket's developing character over time.

The actual fit will depend on your body type, the thickness of the clothing worn underneath, and your preferred amount of room. To help choose your size, please lay flat a similar jacket or shirt jacket that fits you well and compare its chest width, body length, center-back sleeve length, sleeve length from the shoulder seam, and shoulder width with the measurements below.

Our model wears Tagged Size 36. He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.

The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements. Width is the flat measurement across the garment and represents half of the garment's chest circumference, not the full circumference or the wearer's chest size.


In inches

Tagged Size 36
Width: 22.0" / Length: 28.0"
Sleeve: 32.3" (23.6") / Shoulder: 17.3"

Tagged Size 38
Width: 23.2" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.1"

Tagged Size 40
Width: 24.0" / Length: 29.9"
Sleeve: 34.6" (25.2") / Shoulder: 18.9"

Tagged Size 42
Width: 24.8" / Length: 30.7"
Sleeve: 35.0" (25.6") / Shoulder: 19.3"

Tagged Size 44
Width: 25.6" / Length: 31.9"
Sleeve: 36.6" (26.8") / Shoulder: 20.1"


In centimeters

Tagged Size 36
Width: 56cm / Length: 71cm
Sleeve: 82cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 44cm

Tagged Size 38
Width: 59cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 46cm

Tagged Size 40
Width: 61cm / Length: 76cm
Sleeve: 88cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 48cm

Tagged Size 42
Width: 63cm / Length: 78cm
Sleeve: 89cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 49cm

Tagged Size 44
Width: 65cm / Length: 81cm
Sleeve: 93cm (68cm) / Shoulder: 51cm


[How We Measure the Actual Garment]

Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3cm (about 1.2 in.) below the underarms.

Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the hem. The height of the collar is not included in this measurement.

Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the sleeve opening.

Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam down to the end of the sleeve opening.

Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.

Made in Japan.
- Brand new, in unused condition.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.


100% Cotton Herringbone Twill
The jacket is made from 100% cotton herringbone twill, commonly abbreviated as HBT. This woven fabric is formed by reversing the direction of the twill at regular intervals, creating alternating sections of diagonal ridges. The resulting pattern resembles the bones of a herring, giving the weave its name.

The fine herringbone pattern is an integral part of the woven structure. As the twill direction changes, the adjacent sections catch the light differently, producing subtle variations in shading across the olive surface. This interaction between the weave and the light gives the fabric visual depth while retaining the restrained appearance of a solid-color military garment.

The material has a firm, full-bodied hand with enough structure to support the jacket's utility construction. At the same time, it retains the natural suppleness of cotton, allowing the fabric to bend and settle with movement. Its firmness and flexibility work together to give the jacket a substantial yet wearable character.

Olive Surface Character and Natural Variation
The fabric surface shows localized variations in color, areas with a pale or lightly rubbed appearance, and natural creasing. These details give the olive cloth a subdued, worn-in appearance reminiscent of well-used military clothing.

The tonal variation works together with the changing direction of the herringbone weave. The visible texture therefore comes from both the woven pattern and the surface character of the cloth, producing the plain, rugged appearance associated with traditional utility wear. Continued wear and laundering gradually add further changes to the fabric and the areas around the seams.

Unlined Construction without Insulating Fill
The jacket is constructed without a full lining or insulating fill. Its basic structure uses the herringbone twill itself as the garment fabric, preserving the material's texture and flexibility while avoiding the additional thickness of a fully lined outerwear design.

The large front pockets introduce overlapping layers of fabric in specific areas of the front body. These layers form the storage compartments and are part of the pocket construction; they do not constitute a separate lining extending throughout the jacket.

This unlined arrangement suits the jacket's role as light outerwear. It can be layered over a T-shirt or shirt, or combined with a sweatshirt or hoodie when additional warmth is needed. Spring and fall are particularly suitable seasons, with its usable range depending on the layers worn underneath and the surrounding conditions.

Six-Button Front with Folded and Stitched Plackets
The front closes with six buttons, including the uppermost button at the neck. Viewed from the wearer's perspective, the buttons are attached to the right front, while corresponding horizontal buttonholes are positioned along the left front.

Both front edges are formed by turning the body fabric inward and securing the folded sections with stitching. This creates additional layers around the buttons and buttonholes, giving the fastening areas more substance than a single exposed layer of cloth.

Internal Herringbone Gas Flap
A wide, vertically extended gas flap made from the same herringbone twill is sewn behind the facing on the wearer's left front. The flap extends across the inside of the front opening and fastens to buttons positioned on the inside of the right front.

When fastened, this additional fabric panel covers the gap behind the main button closure from the inside. The flap has three buttonholes in total, with two near the upper section and one near the lower section.

This arrangement reproduces a historical protective detail intended to help limit the entry of gas through the front opening. Its construction is separate from the exterior button closure, preserving the layered front arrangement characteristic of the original M-1944 utility coat.

Turn-Down Point Collar without a Separate Collar Stand
The collar has pointed ends and is sewn directly to the body's neckline without a separate collar stand. Its attachment does not use an additional upright band between the body and the collar.

This construction allows the collar to turn back relatively flat and follow the neck naturally. The direct neckline attachment and straightforward fold create a clean, functional outline consistent with the practical construction of period military utility clothing.

Two Hood-Attachment Buttons beneath the Collar
Two buttons are attached to the underside of the collar and become visible when the collar is raised. They reproduce the attachment points used for a separate gas-protective hood on the original military garment.

Together with the internal gas flap, these buttons reflect the protective provisions incorporated into wartime clothing in response to the threat of chemical weapons. A gas-protective hood is not included with this jacket.

Two Large Front Pockets with Vertical Side-Entry Openings
The jacket has three pockets in total: two large front pockets and one additional flap-covered patch pocket on the left chest. Each large front pocket is formed by sewing a broad panel of matching herringbone twill over the front body, extending from near the shoulder down toward the abdomen.

The space between the outer panel and the underlying body fabric forms the storage compartment. The body fabric serves as the inner wall, while the applied panel forms the outer wall. The stitching that secures the panel also outlines the pocket's broad shape on the exterior of the jacket.

Access is provided through a vertical opening along the edge facing the center front, approximately level with the third front button from the top. The opening faces inward toward the main front closure, allowing the hand to enter from the side. Each opening fastens with one button.

The entrance is comparatively small in relation to the storage area behind it. Inside, the compartment extends upward, downward, and outward toward the side of the body, using a much larger portion of the front panel than the opening alone suggests. This combination of a compact entrance and an extensive storage compartment is one of the M-1944 pattern's defining construction details.

Layered Left Chest Patch Pocket with a Pen Compartment
An additional rectangular patch pocket is sewn onto the outer panel of the large left front pocket. This places a separate storage pocket over the fabric already used to form the larger compartment, creating the layered pocket arrangement characteristic of the left chest.

The patch pocket body is stitched directly to the surface, and a flap covers its upper opening. A vertical buttonhole at the center of the flap fastens over a single button attached to the pocket body.

A vertical line of stitching divides off a narrow section within the pocket, creating a slim compartment suitable for a pen or a similar small item. Because this additional pocket appears only on the left side, the two front panels have visibly different layouts, giving the jacket its distinctive asymmetrical front design.

Printed USMC Lettering and Eagle, Globe, and Anchor Insignia
The exterior of the left chest pocket is printed in black with the letters "USMC" and the Marine Corps' EGA insignia. EGA stands for Eagle, Globe, and Anchor, referring to the eagle, globe, and anchor combined in the emblem.

The black lettering and graphic are printed directly onto the olive herringbone fabric. Their placement on the added chest pocket recreates a recognizable visual feature of period U.S. Marine Corps utility clothing.

Single-Panel Back and Folded Hem
The back is made from one continuous body panel without a separate back yoke or action pleats. The fabric runs from the upper back down to the hem, leaving a broad area over which the herringbone pattern remains visible.

This uninterrupted back contrasts with the layered pocket construction on the front while maintaining the garment's straightforward utility structure. At the lower edge, the body fabric is turned inward and secured with stitching to form the hem.

One-Piece Set-In Sleeves
The sleeves use a set-in construction, with each sleeve sewn into its corresponding armhole in the body. The shoulder and armhole seams establish a defined connection between the body and the sleeve.

Each sleeve is formed from a single fabric panel. The edges are joined along the underside to create the sleeve's tubular shape, preserving the simple panel construction used in the original utility design.

Adjustable Sleeve Openings without Separate Cuffs
The sleeve ends do not have separately attached cuffs. Instead, the sleeve fabric itself is turned inward at the opening and secured with stitching, creating a finished edge from the same continuous sleeve panel.

Each sleeve opening has one button and two buttonholes. Fastening the button brings part of the opening over itself, reducing the width around the wrist. Choosing the other buttonhole changes the amount of overlap and allows the opening to be adjusted.

This arrangement controls the sleeve opening through the folded and overlapping sleeve fabric itself, retaining the simple, practical construction of the original garment.

Black-Painted Iron Buttons with U.S. Marine Corps Lettering
The jacket uses black-painted iron buttons with raised "U.S. MARINE CORPS" lettering around their outer rims. Each button has a recessed center, combining the lettering and shaped face in a design that recalls period military hardware.

The black finish stands out against the olive herringbone fabric, making the fastening positions at the front, pockets, and sleeve openings visually distinct. Through wear and rubbing, the painted surface and its sheen may gradually change.

Iron buttons may develop rust when exposed to moisture, perspiration, or water remaining after washing. Rust can also transfer to the surrounding fabric. Please avoid leaving the jacket damp or storing it in a humid location, and allow it to dry thoroughly after cleaning in accordance with the care label.

Stenciled-Style Size Marking and Interior Brand Label
The size number is printed in a stencil-like style on the inside at the neck. This places the size identification directly on the fabric as part of the garment's military-inspired interior detailing.

A separate brand label bearing the "BUZZ RICKSON & CO. INC." design is sewn near the lower end of the inside face of the gas flap. Its placement incorporates the brand identification into the jacket's internal construction.

Visible Stitching that Defines the Construction
The visible stitch lines follow the seams and folded edges around the shoulders, armholes, large front pockets, and plackets. These lines show where the garment's components are joined and where the fabric is folded or secured.

On the front, the stitching makes the broad pocket panels and fastening edges particularly easy to distinguish. The visual detail comes from the construction itself, emphasizing the arrangement of the jacket's functional parts.

Made in Japan
Made in Japan, this Buzz Rickson's reproduction brings together cotton herringbone twill, extensive front storage, an internal gas flap, and simple adjustable sleeve openings. Its carefully reproduced construction preserves the practical character and distinctive appearance of the 1940s U.S. Marine Corps M-1944 utility coat.


Care Instructions
Machine wash on a gentle cycle at a maximum water temperature of 30°C (86°F).
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron on a low setting with a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with petroleum-based solvents using a mild process is permitted.
Professional wet cleaning using a mild process is permitted.

Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.

Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.

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