Buzz Rickson's Men's U.S. Navy N-1 Deck Jacket Reproduction, 100% Cotton Jungle Cloth Shell with Alpaca-Wool Pile Lining, Made in Japan (Toyo Enterprises BR15345, 01 Khaki, NAVY DEPARTMENT DEMOTEX-ED)

Buzz Rickson's Men's U.S. Navy N-1 Deck Jacket Reproduction, 100% Cotton Jungle Cloth Shell with Alpaca-Wool Pile Lining, Made in Japan (Toyo Enterprises BR15345, 01 Khaki, NAVY DEPARTMENT DEMOTEX-ED)

Buzz Rickson's

This men's N-1 deck jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions of vintage American military clothing. Based on the khaki N-1 issued by the U.S. Navy in 1945, it combines a densely woven 100% cotton jungle cloth shell with substantial wool-and-alpaca pile lining through the body and sleeves. A pile-faced collar with a buttoned chin strap, a TALON-marked metal zipper with a jungle cloth pull tab, a six-button storm flap, concealed wool rib-knit cuffs, and an adjustable hem drawcord reflect its origins as cold-weather clothing for naval ship crews. The khaki shell, gray-toned pile collar, and U.S.N. chest print establish its naval appearance, while the interior details reproduce the changes introduced with the khaki configuration. The firm shell and thick lining give the jacket the structure and volume characteristic of an N-1, balanced by a regular fit that brings these military details into contemporary casual outerwear.

Size and Fit Guide:

Gender: Men.

Fit: This jacket falls within the regular-fit range. Its firm, substantial jungle cloth shell and thick alpaca-wool pile lining create the visible volume characteristic of an N-1 deck jacket. The shoulders are not cut especially wide, and the lining occupies some of the interior space, so the jacket does not feel excessively loose despite its substantial appearance. With repeated wear, the shell gradually becomes more supple and conforms more naturally to the body.

The listed measurements are taken from the outside of the jacket. Because the pile lining adds thickness on the inside, the available wearing room may differ from that of a lightweight jacket with the same measured chest width.

Your usual jacket size can be used as a starting point. Actual fit will vary depending on your body type, the thickness of the layers worn underneath, and your preferred amount of room. Please measure a similar lined jacket that fits you well, ideally one with comparable thickness and construction, and compare its chest width, body length, center-back sleeve length, sleeve length from the shoulder seam, and shoulder width with the measurements below. Please also take the thickness of the pile lining into account when considering your preferred fit.

Our model wears Tagged Size 36. He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.

The following measurements show the garment itself laid flat, not the wearer's body measurements. Width is the straight-across measurement of the jacket and does not represent the garment's full chest circumference or the wearer's chest measurement.

In inches

Tagged Size 36
Width: 21.3" / Length: 26.4"
Sleeve: 33.1" (24.4") / Shoulder: 17.3"

Tagged Size 38
Width: 22.4" / Length: 26.4"
Sleeve: 33.9" (24.8") / Shoulder: 18.5"

Tagged Size 40
Width: 23.6" / Length: 27.6"
Sleeve: 35.0" (25.6") / Shoulder: 18.9"

Tagged Size 42
Width: 24.4" / Length: 28.3"
Sleeve: 35.8" (26.4") / Shoulder: 20.1"

Tagged Size 44
Width: 25.2" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 36.6" (26.4") / Shoulder: 20.5"

Tagged Size 46
Width: 26.4" / Length: 29.5"
Sleeve: 37.8" (27.2") / Shoulder: 21.3"

In centimeters

Tagged Size 36
Width: 54cm / Length: 67cm
Sleeve: 84cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 44cm

Tagged Size 38
Width: 57cm / Length: 67cm
Sleeve: 86cm (63cm) / Shoulder: 47cm

Tagged Size 40
Width: 60cm / Length: 70cm
Sleeve: 89cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 48cm

Tagged Size 42
Width: 62cm / Length: 72cm
Sleeve: 91cm (67cm) / Shoulder: 51cm

Tagged Size 44
Width: 64cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 93cm (67cm) / Shoulder: 52cm

Tagged Size 46
Width: 67cm / Length: 75cm
Sleeve: 96cm (69cm) / Shoulder: 54cm

[How We Measure the Actual Garment]

Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Measured with the jacket laid flat, straight across from side to side approximately 3cm (about 1.2 in.) below the underarms. This is a flat width measurement, not the garment's full chest circumference or the wearer's chest measurement.

Length (Body Length): Measured down the back from the base of the collar, at the seam where the collar joins the body, to the bottom edge of the hem. The height of the collar is not included.

Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the sleeve opening in the outer shell. The endpoint is the edge of the jungle cloth sleeve, not the concealed rib-knit cuff inside.

Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The measurement in parentheses is taken from the sleeve attachment seam at the shoulder point down to the end of the sleeve opening in the outer shell. The endpoint is the edge of the jungle cloth sleeve, not the concealed rib-knit cuff inside.

Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from one shoulder seam to the other.

Made in Japan.
- Brand new and unused.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Slight measurement differences may occur due to individual garment variations and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.

Historical Background: The Khaki Type N-1
The N-1 deck jacket was used by U.S. Navy ship crews from World War II through the Korean War as part of a cold-weather outfit worn with trousers made from the same shell material. The design combined cotton grosgrain, commonly known as jungle cloth, with insulating alpaca-and-wool pile lining.

The navy-blue version was adopted in 1944, followed by the issue of a khaki version in 1945. The changes extended beyond the shell color. The khaki configuration omitted the pile inside the sleeve openings and the loops positioned around the underarm and hem areas of the lining. Other differences included larger hem drawcord eyelets and a revised arrangement of the underarm eyelets.

This jacket reproduces the khaki N-1, including the revised interior details and the U.S.N. marking on the left chest.

Densely Woven 100% Cotton Jungle Cloth Shell
The shell is made from 100% cotton jungle cloth, a densely woven fabric also known as cotton grosgrain. Fine ribs are visible across the surface, giving the cloth a textured appearance.

The tightly packed weave produces a strong, substantial material with pronounced firmness and body. It has a structured feel and a dense, weighty character that contribute to the jacket's recognizable N-1 shape. With repeated wear, the shell gradually becomes more supple and settles into a more naturally broken-in feel that follows the body.

The surface reflects light differently depending on the angle of illumination and viewing direction. This creates a restrained sheen and variations in the depth of the khaki color. The fine raised ribs, together with the shadows that form around seams and folds, give the shell a dimensional appearance.

Natural Surface Variation and Seam Puckering
The jungle cloth has a naturally creased surface, with pale, rubbed-looking marks and streak-like tonal variations following the folds and contours of the fabric. Fine puckering also appears along the seams, where the cloth forms small waves beside the stitching.

These surface variations work together with the ribbed weave to give the jacket the rugged texture associated with military clothing. Please be aware that the pale marks and differences in surface tone described here are characteristics of the jungle cloth used for this jacket and form part of its distinctive appearance.

50% Wool and 50% Alpaca Pile Lining
The body and sleeves are lined with a pile fabric composed of 50% wool and 50% alpaca. The raised pile covers the main body and sleeve interiors, creating a fully lined construction. Selected areas, including the front opening facings and portions of the underarm area, use jungle cloth instead of pile.

Air held between the pile fibers forms an insulating layer that helps reduce heat loss from inside the garment. The thickness and loft of the pile add substantial volume on the inside, while the firm jungle cloth supports the outside. Together, these materials create the dense, substantial feel characteristic of an N-1 deck jacket.

TALON-Marked Metal Zipper with a Jungle Cloth Pull Tab
The front opening closes with a metal zipper whose pull is stamped with the TALON name. A fabric tab made from the same jungle cloth as the shell is attached to the pull. The cloth is sewn into a loop, forming an extension beyond the metal pull itself.

This tab provides additional length to grasp, making the zipper easier to operate while wearing gloves. Its looped construction and matching shell fabric carry the practical character of the jacket into this small functional detail.

Six-Button Storm Flap over the Front Zipper
A storm flap runs along the front edge of the wearer's left body panel and covers the zipper. Six horizontally oriented buttonholes are arranged in a vertical row on the flap, with six corresponding buttons positioned along the zipper on the wearer's right body panel.

The zipper closes the front opening first, after which the flap is laid across it and secured with the buttons. This creates a layered closure with fabric overlapping the zipper teeth. Covering the zipper in this way helps limit direct wind exposure at the fastening and reduces the entry of cold air through the front opening.

Pile-Faced Turn-Down Collar with a Jungle Cloth Undercollar
The collar is a turn-down design with rounded ends that give it a shawl-like outline. Its outer face is covered in raised pile, while the underside uses the same jungle cloth as the shell. Zigzag stitching is visible on the jungle cloth undercollar, adding a distinct construction detail to this combination of two different materials.

When the collar is raised, the pile surface faces inward toward the neck and wraps around it. The thickness of the pile gives the collar a dimensional outline, while its gray tones and textured surface contrast with the khaki shell. This difference between the collar and body materials is one of the defining visual features of the N-1 design.

Buttoned Chin Strap with a Separate Stowage Button
A chin strap is attached at the wearer's left collar end, with a buttonhole at its tip. A fastening button is positioned beneath the turned-down right collar section. With the collar raised, the strap can be brought across the throat and secured to this button, joining the two collar ends and reducing the opening at the front of the neck.

The pile-faced collar and chin strap work together to improve warmth and wind protection around the neck. A separate retaining button is located beneath the turned-down left collar section. When the strap is not in use, it can be folded back toward the left side and buttoned in place for storage.

Slanted Front Welt Pockets
Welt pockets are positioned on both sides of the front body. Their openings are angled to make them easier to reach when placing the hands inside. Fabric welts finish the edges of the openings, while the pocket bags sit inside the body of the jacket.

This construction keeps the storage space within the garment and gives the outside a relatively clean appearance, with the slanted pocket openings providing definition across the substantial jungle cloth shell.

Set-In Sleeves with One-Piece Shell Panels
The sleeves use a set-in construction, with each sleeve cap sewn into the corresponding armhole of the body. Each outer sleeve is formed from a single main fabric panel, with its edges joined along the underside of the arm to create a tube.

At the sleeve opening, the jungle cloth is turned inward and secured with stitching. There is no separate external cuff band, and the outer opening has no buttons or other opening-and-closing fasteners. Viewed from the outside, the shell fabric continues directly to the end of the sleeve.

Concealed 100% Wool Rib-Knit Cuffs
Inside each sleeve end is a concealed cuff knitted from 100% wool. The rib knit sits inward from the outer sleeve opening, allowing the surrounding jungle cloth to cover and protect it. This arrangement helps reduce exposure of the knitted material to abrasion and snagging during use.

The elasticity of the rib knit allows it to follow the wrist and reduce the gap at the sleeve opening. By limiting the passage of cold air into the sleeve and warm air out of it, the concealed cuffs contribute to the jacket's insulating construction while preserving the plain appearance of the outer sleeve ends.

Sleeve-End Detail of the Khaki Model
The sleeves retain their wool-and-alpaca pile lining, but no pile is placed inside the sleeve ends around the concealed rib-knit cuffs. The omission applies to this area around the cuffs, while the sleeves themselves remain pile lined. Omitting the pile at the inner sleeve openings is one of the changes introduced with the khaki N-1 after the early navy-blue configuration.

Underarm Ventilation Eyelets
The underarm ventilation detail consists of four metal eyelets set into the outer shell. Each eyelet reinforces a small opening in the jungle cloth. These openings do not continue through the pile lining.

The eyelets provide a route for moisture to escape from the space between the outer shell and the pile lining. Their placement forms part of the jacket's functional ventilation detailing.

Adjustable Hem Drawcord
A drawcord runs inside the lower hem, allowing the opening around the bottom of the jacket to be adjusted. Pulling the cord draws the hem inward, reducing the gap between the jacket and the body and helping control movement of the hem during wear.

Metal eyelets reinforce the points where the cord exits the fabric. Tightening the hem can also help reduce wind entering the jacket from below, complementing the covered front closure, chin strap, and concealed sleeve cuffs.

Omission of the Early Model's Internal Loops
The loops found inside the body near the underarm and hem areas of the early navy-blue N-1 are omitted on this jacket. This simplified interior arrangement reproduces another of the construction changes associated with the transition to the khaki model.

Plain Back and U.S.N. Chest Print
The back has a straightforward construction without a center-back seam or a large yoke-style panel division. It is left unprinted, preserving a clean view of the jungle cloth surface.

The letters U.S.N. are printed on the wearer's left chest. This marking provides a visible reference to the jacket's origins as cold-weather clothing for U.S. Navy ship crews and is a defining detail of its khaki exterior.

NAVAL CLOTHING DEPOT and DEMOTEX-ED Reproduction Labels
A reproduction label is sewn inside the back neck, displaying the NAVAL CLOTHING DEPOT name, contract number NXsx 63812, and the garment's tagged size. A smaller DEMOTEX-ED label is attached below it, reproducing the appearance of the period labeling.

A tape-style hanging loop is positioned above the labels and provides a point from which the jacket can be hung.

Made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's BR15345 Type N-1 Khaki "NAVY DEPARTMENT DEMOTEX-ED" is made in Japan. Its substantial jungle cloth shell and thick alpaca-wool pile lining are combined with a buttoned storm flap over the zipper, a collar chin strap, concealed wool rib-knit cuffs, and an adjustable hem drawcord.

From the khaki shell, gray-toned pile collar, and U.S.N. chest print to the omission of pile around the inner sleeve openings and the early model's internal body loops, the jacket recreates the construction of the N-1 as it evolved as part of the U.S. Navy's cold-weather clothing. Its regular fit and substantial materials bring these historical details together in a jacket suited to contemporary casual wear.

Care Instructions
Do not wash at home.
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Do not iron.
Do not dry clean.
Do not professionally wet clean.
For cleaning, consult a specialist leather cleaner.

Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.

Care and Maintenance for This N-1 Deck Jacket
Washing the entire jacket, tumble drying, and dry cleaning are not recommended. To reproduce the construction of the original military garment, this jacket combines a cotton jungle cloth shell, wool-and-alpaca pile lining, concealed wool rib-knit cuffs, and a looped zipper-pull tab made from the same jungle cloth as the shell. Exposure to water, heat, or unsuitable cleaning methods may cause these materials to shrink or become distorted, affecting the jacket's overall shape and appearance.

For localized soiling, carefully wipe the affected area with a cloth lightly dampened with a mild detergent diluted in water. This method may still cause uneven color or discoloration, so always test a small, inconspicuous area first and proceed with care.

Storage
Use a broad, supportive hanger to help maintain the jacket's shape. Store it in a dry, well-ventilated location, and loosely cover it with a clean, dry towel to protect it from dust. Suitable moth-prevention and moisture-control products may also be used. Periodically inspect the jacket for mold and the wool rib-knit cuffs for insect damage.

Specialist Cleaning
If professional cleaning becomes necessary, consult a trusted specialist in advance and explain the jacket's combination of materials. Please be aware that cleaning may alter its appearance or affect printed markings. Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.

Do not deliberately soil, distress, or artificially age the jacket, as these treatments may cause damage.

Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken manually with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.