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Buzz Rickson's Men's Vintage-Inspired Long-Sleeve Thermal Henley T-Shirt, 100% Cotton Waffle Knit, Three-Button Placket, Four-Needle Flatseams, Made in Japan (BR68130 128 Navy)

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Buzz Rickson's Men's Vintage-Inspired Long-Sleeve Thermal Henley T-Shirt, 100% Cotton Waffle Knit, Three-Button Placket, Four-Needle Flatseams, Made in Japan (BR68130)

Buzz Rickson's

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This men's long-sleeve thermal Henley T-shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions and interpretations of vintage American military clothing. Rather than reproducing a U.S. military-issued garment from a specific era or following a particular military specification, it is an original Buzz Rickson's design inspired by classic military-style thermal wear. The brand's waffle-knit fabric is made from 10-count yarn and has moderate thickness and a distinct three-dimensional texture. A slightly raised, band-shaped rib-knit collar is paired with a three-button placket made from contrasting, non-stretch woven fabric. Rib-knit cuffs and a gently curved hem add details associated with vintage thermal shirts. The shirt has a slightly slim, streamlined silhouette without the close, body-hugging fit of thermal underwear. Its moderately substantial fabric gives it enough presence to be worn on its own as a long-sleeve T-shirt, while the fit also allows it to layer neatly beneath a jacket or coat. This balance makes it easy to incorporate into everyday casual outfits.

Size and Fit Guide:

Gender: Men.

The shirt has an overall slightly slim fit with a clean, streamlined outline. The body falls relatively naturally from the chest toward the waist without pronounced tapering. It is not designed with the extremely tight, body-hugging fit associated with thermal underwear. The moderately substantial, stretchy waffle knit follows the body gently without emphasizing its contours too strongly.

The slightly raised rib-knit neckband follows the neck, and the three-button Henley opening allows the neckline to be adjusted. Set-in sleeves define the shoulder line, while rib-knit cuffs bring the sleeve openings closer to the wrists. The hem curves gently upward from the center toward the sides at both the front and back, giving the lower edge a naturally rounded profile when worn untucked.

These proportions allow the shirt to be worn as a main long-sleeve top or as a layer beneath a jacket or coat. Because the thermal knit has a high degree of stretch, the measurements below represent the garment in its laid-flat state and should be treated as reference dimensions. During wear, the knit expands and relaxes in response to body shape and movement, so its stretch should be considered alongside the listed measurements when assessing fit.

Because fit varies with body type and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. Please measure a similar thermal Henley or long-sleeve thermal T-shirt that fits you well and compare its chest width, body length, sleeve measurements, and shoulder width with those listed below. Please also take the stretch of the fabric into account when making your comparison.

Our model wears Tagged Size M (38 - 40). He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.

The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements. Width is the flat measurement across the garment and represents half of the garment's chest circumference, not the full circumference or the wearer's chest size.


In inches

Tagged Size S (36-38)
Width: 17.7" / Length: 24.0"
Sleeve: 30.3" (23.2") / Shoulder: 14.6"

Tagged Size M (38-40)
Width: 18.5" / Length: 25.6"
Sleeve: 32.7" (24.8") / Shoulder: 15.7"

Tagged Size L (40-42)
Width: 20.1" / Length: 26.8"
Sleeve: 34.3" (25.6") / Shoulder: 17.7"

Tagged Size XL (42-44)
Width: 21.3" / Length: 27.6"
Sleeve: 35.8" (26.4") / Shoulder: 19.3"


In centimeters

Tagged Size S (36-38)
Width: 45cm / Length: 61cm
Sleeve: 77cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 37cm

Tagged Size M (38-40)
Width: 47cm / Length: 65cm
Sleeve: 83cm (63cm) / Shoulder: 40cm

Tagged Size L (40-42)
Width: 51cm / Length: 68cm
Sleeve: 87cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 45cm

Tagged Size XL (42-44)
Width: 54cm / Length: 70cm
Sleeve: 91cm (67cm) / Shoulder: 49cm


[How We Measure the Actual Garment]

Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3cm (about 1.2 in.) below the underarms.

Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the hem. The height of the collar is not included in this measurement.

Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.

Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam down to the end of the cuff.

Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.

Made in Japan.
- Brand new, in unused condition.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat.
- Slight measurement differences may occur between individual garments and depending on the measuring method. With this stretchy thermal knit, the way the fabric expands or relaxes and even slight tension during measuring can also affect the results.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.


100% Cotton Thermal Fabric with a Vertically Elongated Waffle Pattern
The body is made from Buzz Rickson's original waffle-knit thermal fabric, knitted from 10-count, 100% cotton yarn. The raised and recessed areas are elongated in the vertical direction, giving the pattern a narrower, lengthwise appearance than the roughly square pattern of a conventional waffle knit. As these elongated formations repeat across the surface, they create a finely ridged, three-dimensional texture with a subtle resemblance to vertical ribs.

The knit has a textured structure on both the exterior and the reverse. Its raised sections and recessed spaces create depth within the fabric, helping hold pockets of air that contribute to the warmth associated with thermal materials. This insulating character comes from the physical relief of the knitted structure.

The textured reverse also reduces the area of continuous contact between the fabric and the skin. Instead of resting against the body as a uniformly flat surface, the alternating raised and recessed areas help keep portions of the fabric away from the skin. This helps reduce the tendency of the material to cling when the wearer perspires.

Substantial Thickness with Stretch and Suppleness
For a thermal fabric, the material has a relatively substantial thickness. This gives the shirt enough body for its waffle texture to remain visually prominent when it is worn as a standalone top. The three-dimensional surface contributes to the garment's appearance even without printed graphics or other prominent decoration.

At the same time, the waffle knit retains its characteristic stretch and suppleness. The fabric can flex and extend with the wearer's movements while settling naturally around the body. This balance of thickness and flexibility allows the shirt to work as both a main casual top and a layer beneath jackets or coats.

One-Wash Garment Finish
The T-shirt is washed once in its completed garment form during production. Washing the assembled garment allows the knitted fabric to settle and brings out the raised and recessed waffle structure together with the natural texture of the cotton.

Some initial shrinkage has already occurred through this finishing wash. However, the garment is made from 100% cotton knit, so the one-wash finish does not eliminate the possibility of later dimensional changes. Wear, washing, and drying methods can still cause the fabric to stretch, contract, or otherwise change in size.

Slightly Raised Double-Layer Rib-Knit Henley Neckband
The neckline uses a band-shaped rib-knit collar that stands slightly higher around the neck than the rib trim on a conventional crew-neck T-shirt. The rib knit is folded back on itself to create a double layer and then sewn to the body, forming a raised neckband that follows the shape of the neck.

A three-button placket is positioned at the center front of this neckband to create the Henley opening. The combination gives the neckline a defined upright profile, while the buttoned opening allows the amount of opening at the front of the neck to be adjusted.

Contrasting Non-Stretch Woven Placket
The placket is constructed from non-stretch woven panels, separate from the stretchy thermal knit used for the body. These woven panels support the front opening, where force is concentrated as the buttons are fastened and unfastened. Their stable structure helps limit stretching and distortion in this area while reinforcing the button closure.

The woven surface also creates a visible textural contrast with the raised waffle knit. In addition to this difference in structure, the contrasting colors of the body and placket emphasize the center-front opening and provide a restrained visual accent.

Two-Hole Urea Dish Buttons and Three-Button Closure
The placket is fitted with three two-hole buttons made from urea resin. Each button has a dish-shaped face with a recessed center. This recessed area gives the attachment thread room to sit below the surrounding rim, helping keep the stitches from projecting prominently above the button face.

The uppermost buttonhole is positioned horizontally, while the two lower buttonholes are vertical. Fastening all three buttons creates a relatively closed, neatly defined neckline. Leaving buttons undone allows the front opening to be adjusted to the wearer's preference.

Set-In Sleeve Construction
The sleeves use a conventional set-in construction. Each sleeve has a shaped sleeve cap that is sewn into the corresponding armhole in the body, creating a defined junction between the shoulder and sleeve.

The sleeve attachment follows the shoulder area and gives the upper body a clean, clearly outlined shape. This arrangement preserves the straightforward shoulder construction associated with a classic long-sleeve T-shirt.

Double-Layer Rib-Knit Cuffs
Each sleeve ends in a separate rib-knit cuff. The stretchy rib knit is folded back on itself to form a double layer and then sewn to the thermal sleeve, creating a distinct transition between the textured sleeve fabric and the ribbed wrist opening.

The cuffs narrow naturally toward the sleeve ends and fit moderately close around the wrists. Their elasticity helps keep the openings from spreading excessively while allowing them to follow the wrists during wear. Bringing the sleeve ends closer to the body also reduces the gaps through which cold air can enter.

Gently Curved Raw-Edge Hem with Stitching Above the Cut Edge
The lower edge of the body is left unfolded, with the cut edge of the thermal fabric exposed. Stitching runs slightly above this edge on the body side of the cut. The threads do not wrap around and enclose the edge as they would in an overlock finish. Instead, the exposed cut edge remains below the stitched area, and the stitching helps limit excessive unraveling into the body of the fabric.

Because the edge is not turned under, the hem avoids the additional layers and localized thickness of a conventional folded T-shirt hem. There is also no separate rib-knit waistband. This construction keeps the lower edge comparatively low in bulk and flexible, preserving the stretch and suppleness of the thermal knit around the bottom of the shirt.

The front and back hem lines each form a gentle curve, rising gradually from the center toward the side seams. When the shirt is worn untucked, these curved edges create a naturally rounded outline around the lower body.

Intentional Thread-Chain Tails at the Side-Seam Hems
At the lower end of each side seam, the sewing threads continue beyond the fabric edge as a free thread chain. This detail, known as karakan in Japanese, is formed when the machine continues stitching after the fabric has passed through, allowing the threads alone to interlock into a continuous chain.

These thread-chain tails are deliberately left in place instead of being trimmed close to the fabric. They incorporate a sewing detail found on vintage underwear and shirts. Their length and the way the threads settle may vary slightly between individual garments. They are an intentional part of the construction and are not evidence of defective sewing or an overlooked finishing step.

Four-Needle Flatseam Construction
The collar area, shoulder seams, armholes, undersleeve seams, and side seams are joined using a four-needle flatseamer. This method creates comparatively flat junctions between the garment components while limiting the buildup of overlapping seam allowances.

When textured thermal panels are joined, raised seam allowances can otherwise create ridges or concentrated thickness on the inside of the garment. Keeping these junctions relatively flat reduces unnecessary bulk around the shoulders, armholes, sleeves, and sides, helping the seams feel less prominent against the skin.

Visible Flatseam Stitchwork
The four-needle stitching also appears on the outside of the shirt, tracing the junctions between its components. It outlines areas such as the armholes, undersleeves, and side seams, making the construction of the garment visible from the exterior.

On the otherwise plain thermal shirt, this stitchwork provides a subtle design accent. Its visual character comes directly from the seams that hold the garment together, allowing the functional construction to contribute to the shirt's overall appearance.

Made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's model BR68130 is made in Japan. Its vertically elongated cotton waffle knit, slightly raised Henley neckband, woven button placket, rib-knit cuffs, curved raw-edge hem, and four-needle flatseams bring together the texture and practical construction details of classic thermal wear.

The combination of a slightly slim silhouette, substantial yet supple knit, and comparatively flat seams gives the shirt the presence for standalone casual wear and the flexibility for use as a layer beneath outerwear.


Care Instructions
Machine wash on a very gentle cycle at a maximum water temperature of 30°C (86°F).
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron on a low setting with a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with petroleum-based solvents using a gentle process is permitted.
Professional wet cleaning using a gentle process is permitted.

The garment has been washed once during production. Some further stretching, shrinkage, or other dimensional change may still occur with wear or depending on the washing and drying methods used.

Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.

Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken manually with the garment laid flat.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur. The stretch of the thermal fabric and even slight tension during measuring can also affect the results.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.

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