Buzz Rickson's Men's Off-White Chambray Long-Sleeve Work Shirt, Modified 1950s U.S. Navy Utility Shirt Design, Made in Japan (BR25996 105 Ecru-Toned Off-White)

Buzz Rickson's Men's Off-White Chambray Long-Sleeve Work Shirt, Modified 1950s U.S. Navy Utility Shirt Design, Made in Japan (BR25996 105 Ecru-Toned Off-White)

Buzz Rickson

This men's long-sleeve button-up shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprise's military label specializing in vintage-inspired American military clothing. Its construction is based on the blue chambray utility shirts worn by U.S. Navy sailors during the 1950s, but the original blue chambray has been replaced with an ecru-toned off-white chambray, creating a distinctive Buzz Rickson's reinterpretation rather than an exact color reproduction. The lightweight 100% cotton chambray displays natural weave irregularities, small neps, and subtle, linen-like wrinkling, giving the fabric a rough, rustic workwear character. The shirt incorporates period-inspired details such as a collar stand, flapless buttoned chest pockets, rounded shirttail hem, selvedge side gussets, and chain-stitch runoffs extending from the side seams at the hem. Together, these details preserve the practical character of the original design while giving the shirt a lighter, more understated appearance. Its balanced silhouette is neither overly slim nor excessively loose, allowing it to blend naturally into contemporary casual wardrobes.

Size and Fit Guide:

Gender: Men.

This shirt has a balanced silhouette that is neither overly slim nor excessively loose and falls broadly within the range of a regular fit. The shoulders and body are not cut especially narrow, nor does the shirt have the added volume of an intentionally oversized design. The body is not heavily tapered from the chest to the hem, allowing it to fall in a relatively straight, natural line. The front and back are finished with a gently rounded shirttail hem, making the shirt suitable for wearing either tucked in or untucked. Made from relatively lightweight chambray, it can be worn on its own or open over a T-shirt or other lightweight top. The fabric is also light enough to layer easily under a jacket or other outerwear.

Because fit may vary depending on body type and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. For the most accurate comparison, we recommend measuring a similar long-sleeve shirt that fits you well. All measurements are taken by hand with a measuring tape, so slight variations may occur from one garment to another and depending on the measuring method.

Our model is wearing a tagged size S (14-14 1/2). He stands 5'9" (175 cm) tall, weighs 127 lbs (58 kg), and has a 36-inch (91 cm) chest. He typically wears a US/EU size S (36) in most garments.

The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements.
Please compare them with a similar shirt from your wardrobe to get a better sense of the fit.

In inches

Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 20.1" / Length: 26.8"
Sleeve: 31.1" (22.4") / Shoulder: 16.9"

Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 21.3" / Length: 28.0"
Sleeve: 32.3" (23.6") / Shoulder: 17.7"

Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 22.0" / Length: 29.1"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.5"

Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 23.2" / Length: 29.9"
Sleeve: 35.4" (25.6") / Shoulder: 19.7"

Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 24.0" / Length: 30.3"
Sleeve: 35.8" (25.6") / Shoulder: 20.5"

In centimeters

Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 51cm / Length: 68cm
Sleeve: 79cm (57cm) / Shoulder: 43cm

Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 54cm / Length: 71cm
Sleeve: 82cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 45cm

Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 56cm / Length: 74cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 47cm

Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 59cm / Length: 76cm
Sleeve: 90cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 50cm

Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 61cm / Length: 77cm
Sleeve: 91cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 52cm

[How We Measure the Actual Garment]

Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3 cm (about 1.2 in.) below the armholes.

Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the back hem.

Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.

Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam straight down to the end of the cuff.

Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.

Made in Japan.
Brand new with tags, in unused condition.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.

Lightweight 100% Cotton Ecru-Toned Off-White Chambray Fabric
The shirt is made from lightweight 100% cotton chambray fabric. Off-white yarns are used in both the lengthwise warp and crosswise weft, creating a unified ecru-toned appearance across the fabric.

Conventional blue chambray generally combines blue warp yarns with white weft yarns, producing a blue-toned, heathered appearance as the two yarn colors intersect. On this shirt, the use of off-white yarns in both directions creates a more consistent natural color while preserving the fine woven texture and subtle shading characteristic of chambray. The result is brighter than conventional blue chambray but remains subdued rather than appearing stark or uniformly white.

Natural Weave Variation, Neps, and Linen-Like Wrinkling
The fabric retains the natural character of the yarns, with slight weave irregularities, fine surface undulation, and small variations in texture visible throughout. Rather than forming a completely flat and mechanically uniform surface, the intersecting yarns create subtle differences in height, tension, and shading.

Fine brown and nearly black flecks originating from the natural cotton are scattered throughout the ecru-colored yarns. Small neps also appear intermittently where irregular or slightly thicker sections of yarn rise above the surrounding weave. These details give the fabric visible depth at close range without forming a printed or intentionally patterned surface.

Although the fabric is made entirely from cotton, it also develops natural creasing and subtle surface wrinkling that can recall the appearance of linen. The combination of woven irregularity, cotton-derived flecks, small neps, and linen-like wrinkles gives the cloth a rustic and slightly rough workwear character rather than the smooth appearance of a highly uniform shirting fabric.

These characteristics are not stains or fabric defects. They are inherent features of the natural ecru cotton yarns and the woven structure of the chambray. Their placement, size, and concentration may vary slightly between different areas of the fabric and from one garment to another.

Lightweight Fabric with Moderate Firmness and Resilience
The chambray is thin and lightweight, but it is not exceptionally soft, fluid, or strongly draped. The fabric retains moderate firmness, crispness, and resilience, giving it enough body to support the outline of a traditional work shirt.<
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It does not have the weight or volume of a heavy work-shirt fabric, yet its remaining structure prevents it from collapsing closely against the body like a softer and more fluid shirting material. This balance allows the shirt to remain lightweight while preserving a clearly defined workwear shape.

With repeated wear and laundering, the initial firmness gradually relaxes. The cotton fabric becomes progressively more pliable and conforms more naturally to the wearer while retaining the woven character of the chambray.

One-Wash Finish
The completed shirt is given a one-wash finish during the final production stage. Washing the garment before sale relaxes part of the fabric's initial rigidity, so the chambray feels less hard at the beginning of wear than it would in a completely unwashed state. The process does not eliminate the moderate firmness and body that define the fabric.

Because the garment has already been washed once during production, the possibility of substantial initial shrinkage after purchase is reduced to some extent compared with an untreated, unwashed cotton shirt. However, the fabric is not shrink-proof. Slight additional dimensional changes may still occur depending on the washing method, water temperature, drying conditions, frequency of laundering, and individual garment variation.

Changes with Wear and Laundering
With continued wear and washing, the cotton chambray gradually becomes more pliable, while the natural creasing and definition of the weave become increasingly pronounced. The fabric therefore develops from its original new-garment condition into a surface and hand that conform more naturally to the wearer.

Fine puckering and subtle wear-related shading may also develop around the seams. As the fabric contracts and relaxes around the stitched areas, the differences in height and shadow between the chambray and sewing lines become more visible, gradually giving the construction greater dimensional definition.

Because the fabric is ecru-toned off-white, its development differs from the obvious fading normally associated with dark dyed cloth. Changes appear primarily through increased pliability, deeper woven texture, more defined wrinkles, and subtle shadows around the seams. These characteristics allow the off-white chambray to develop its own distinctive appearance through continued wear and laundering.

Point Collar with a Separate Collar Stand
The neckline is finished with a standard point collar attached to a separate collar stand. The collar narrows naturally toward the points, creating the familiar profile of a traditional button-front work shirt.

The separate stand forms a supporting band around the base of the neck. This construction stabilizes the collar body and gives the neckline moderate dimensional definition instead of allowing the collar to lie completely flat against the upper body.

Unlike a camp collar or open collar designed primarily to remain spread at the neckline, this collar can be fastened completely with the top button. When fully buttoned, the collar maintains a more orderly and defined shape. When the top button is left open, it forms a natural opening around the neck for more casual wear.

Full Six-Button Front with Asymmetrical Placket Construction
The shirt uses a full-opening button front that extends from the neckline to the hem. Six buttons are arranged along the front, and the corresponding buttonholes are oriented vertically in line with the opening. This configuration allows the garment to be opened completely for dressing and removal.

The two sides of the front opening use different construction methods. On the left front panel, a separate strip of matching chambray is folded to form a double layer and sewn onto the body as an applied placket. The added layer reinforces the buttonhole side and gives the front edge a stable, clearly defined shape.

On the right front panel, the edge of the body fabric is turned inward to create a doubled integrated facing rather than using a separate applied placket component. This folded section supports the button attachments and reinforces the opposite front edge.

Together, the applied placket and integrated facing reinforce both sides of the opening while preserving the asymmetrical front construction found on traditional work shirts.

Flapless Buttoned Chest Patch Pockets
Two patch pockets are sewn directly onto the exterior of the chest. The pockets do not use separate flaps. Instead, the upper edge of each pocket body is turned inward to form a double-layer opening.

The doubled upper section reinforces the part of the pocket that is repeatedly handled when items are inserted or removed. A buttonhole is worked into this reinforced section, and the pocket opening is secured by a button sewn to the shirt body behind it.

This construction closes the pocket directly without adding the separate layer and visual weight of an independent pocket flap. Both lower corners of each pocket are formed with gentle curves rather than sharp points. The rounded shape softens the outline of the pockets while retaining the direct and functional construction of a traditional work shirt.

Long Set-In Sleeve Construction
The shirt uses conventional long set-in sleeves. Each shaped sleeve cap is sewn into the corresponding armhole, with the sleeve beginning at the outer end of the shoulder seam. This establishes a clearly defined boundary between the body and sleeve and allows the sleeve to fall naturally from the shoulder along the arm.

This differs from raglan construction, in which the sleeve panel extends diagonally toward the neckline. The set-in configuration uses distinct shoulder and sleeve pattern sections, supporting the traditional shoulder shape and orderly appearance associated with a classic button-front work shirt.

Square Single-Button Cuffs and Sleeve Slits
Each sleeve is finished with a single-button cuff. The cuff ends have straight, square corners rather than rounded edges, reinforcing the shirt's simple and functional workwear appearance.

The cuff buttonhole is positioned horizontally in relation to the sleeve opening. This orientation corresponds to the lateral tension placed on the closure when the cuff is fastened around the wrist and helps the buttonhole receive that force along its length.

A slit opening is incorporated above each cuff. When the cuff button is released, the slit allows the lower sleeve to spread wider so the hand can pass through more easily. The opening also makes it easier to turn back the lower sleeve when the shirt is worn with the cuffs rolled.

Off-White Urea Two-Hole Dish-Shaped Buttons
Off-white two-hole buttons made from urea resin are used at the front, chest pockets, and cuffs. Each button has a dimensional dish-shaped profile with a recessed center. This recess allows the attachment thread to sit within the center of the button rather than protruding prominently above its surface.

Positioning the thread within the recessed area reduces its direct exposure to surface friction and accidental snagging while helping keep the thread centered and stable. This is a functional button construction rather than a purely decorative shape.

The off-white buttons and sewing thread are coordinated with the ecru-toned chambray. This tonal combination gives the shirt a unified appearance without concealing the practical construction of the individual components.

Double-Layer Back Yoke
The upper back is divided by a yoke panel extending across both shoulders. The back yoke is constructed from two layers of matching chambray, adding reinforcement to the shoulder and upper-back area where the shirt is repeatedly subjected to tension during dressing and arm movement.

The doubled construction also adds localized thickness and stability to the upper back. It supports the surrounding seams and helps the shoulder area retain its defined structure through repeated wear and laundering while the remainder of the shirt maintains the lighter character of the single-layer chambray.

Clean Back Construction Without Pleats
The back does not include pleats or decorative paneling below the yoke. Instead, the body falls directly and naturally from the lower edge of the back yoke toward the hem, creating a straightforward and uncluttered construction.

The double-layer yoke supplies reinforcement across the shoulders, while the uninterrupted lower back allows the lightweight chambray to retain its natural flexibility. The broad fabric surface also displays the ecru tone, fine weave, intermittent neps, and naturally wrinkled texture without additional seams or decorative interruptions.

Rounded Shirttail Hem
The hem is cut in a rounded shirttail shape. On both the front and back, the hem curves upward from the center toward the side seams. This is a traditional hem profile commonly associated with classic work shirts.

When the shirt is worn untucked, the front and back curves avoid the straight, flat horizontal line created by a square-cut hem. Instead, the rounded sections follow the body and fall in a softer, more natural line around the waist and hips.

Selvedge Triangular Side Gussets
A small triangular gusset is installed where each side seam meets the hem. This junction is particularly vulnerable to concentrated stress because body movement and pulling across the lower shirt place repeated tension on the terminal point of the side seam.

Adding a separate reinforcing piece helps distribute this tension over a broader area and reduces direct strain on the seam end and hem edge. The gussets therefore help protect the lower side seams from splitting or fraying. This is a functional reinforcement method found on older work shirts rather than a purely decorative addition.

Each gusset uses the selvedge edge of the chambray. The selvedge is the finished outer edge formed during the weaving of the fabric. It is not displayed prominently across the shirt and can be seen only within these small reinforcement pieces at the side hems.

This restrained use of the fabric edge provides a subtle indication of the cloth's woven construction and recalls manufacturing details associated with older workwear. It does not serve as a large exterior decoration.

Two-Row Chain-Stitch Runoffs at the Side Hems
Two chain-stitch runoff tails are deliberately left extending from the lower side seams. A runoff is formed when a chain-stitch sewing machine continues feeding thread after the completed seam has passed beyond the edge of the fabric. With no fabric between the stitches, the interlocking thread loops continue as narrow chains.

These tails are not separate strands twisted together and attached to the hem. They are direct continuations of the chain stitching used to construct the side seams. Leaving the runoffs untrimmed reproduces a sewing detail associated with vintage work shirts and older garment-production methods.

Because the runoffs hang freely from the side hems, their length, direction, and the way the thread chains gather may vary slightly from one garment to another. This variation is normal. The visible thread chains are not evidence of loose sewing, an unfinished seam, or a missed trimming operation. They are an intentional construction detail.

Double-Needle Felled Seam Construction
Double-needle felled seams are used at major structural areas, including the side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, back yoke, and sleeves. These locations are regularly subjected to movement, pulling, and repeated stress during wear.

In this construction, the raw fabric edges and seam allowances are folded and enclosed within the seam rather than being left exposed. Two parallel rows of stitching secure the folded layers. Enclosing the cut edges helps control fraying, keeps the seam allowances stable, and reinforces the joined fabric panels.

The two stitch rows secure a broader section of fabric than a single row and help distribute stress along the length of the seam. This is particularly relevant at the armholes and side seams, where repeated arm and body movement continually places tension on the construction.

The parallel stitch lines remain visible on the exterior, making the structural construction of the shirt part of its appearance. With repeated wear and laundering, fine puckering and subtle wear marks may develop around these seams, gradually increasing the dimensional relationship between the stitching and chambray.

Interior Buzz Rickson & Co. Woven Label
A Buzz Rickson & Co. woven label is attached inside the collar. No large brand logo or decorative branding is applied to the exterior. The identifying brand element is kept inside the garment, preserving the restrained appearance of the shirt.

Made in Japan
This shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's. It combines lightweight 100% cotton off-white chambray with a point collar and separate collar stand, asymmetrical front placket construction, flapless buttoned chest pockets, long set-in sleeves, square single-button cuffs, a double-layer back yoke, a rounded shirttail hem, selvedge side gussets, chain-stitch runoffs, and double-needle felled seams.

The construction retains the practical details associated with a 1950s U.S. Navy utility shirt while replacing the conventional blue chambray with ecru-toned off-white cloth. The result is a Buzz Rickson's original reinterpretation that combines vintage workwear construction with the brand's own off-white color treatment.

Model: Buzz Rickson's by Toyo Enterprises / Lot No. BR25996 / White Chambray Work Shirt (Long Sleeve).