Buzz Rickson's Men's Blue Chambray Long-Sleeve Work Shirt, 100% Cotton, 1950s U.S. Navy Utility Shirt Reproduction, One-Wash, Made in Japan (BR25995)

Buzz Rickson's Men's Blue Chambray Long-Sleeve Work Shirt, 100% Cotton, 1950s U.S. Navy Utility Shirt Reproduction, One-Wash, Made in Japan (BR25995)

Buzz Rickson's

This men's blue chambray long-sleeve work shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions and interpretations of vintage American military clothing. Based on the utility shirts adopted by the U.S. Navy in the 1950s, this model recreates the practical construction and classic military character of period naval workwear. Its lightweight 100% cotton chambray combines blue warp yarns with off-white weft yarns, creating a finely mottled surface with visible yarn irregularities and natural creasing. A one-wash finish eases the fabric's initial stiffness while preserving a moderate degree of crispness and body. The construction includes a regular shirt collar with a separate collar stand, a six-button front, two buttoned chest patch pockets, set-in sleeves with single-button cuffs, a double-layer back yoke, a rounded shirttail hem, selvedge side gussets, and chainstitch run-off at the side seams. Tonal blue buttons and off-white stitching make the functional details visible without relying on large exterior logos or decoration. The slightly trim silhouette retains comfortable room through the body, making the shirt suitable for everyday casual wear on its own or beneath a jacket.

Size and Fit Guide:

Gender: Men.

The shirt has a clean, slightly trim fit that limits excess fullness through the body. Its outline is relatively defined, but it is not an especially close-fitting cut intended to emphasize the body's contours. Instead, it follows the body naturally while retaining a moderate amount of room. This balance works both as a regular long-sleeve shirt and as a layer beneath jackets and other outerwear.

The lightweight chambray has enough body to help the shirt maintain its outline. With repeated wear and washing, the fabric gradually becomes more supple and settles more naturally around the wearer.

The actual fit will depend on your body type, the thickness of the layer worn underneath, and your preferred amount of room. To choose your size, please lay flat a similar long-sleeve shirt that fits you well and compare its chest width, body length, center-back sleeve length, sleeve length from the shoulder seam, and shoulder width with the measurements below.

Our model wears Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2). He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.

The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements. Width is the flat measurement across the garment and represents half of the garment's chest circumference, not the full circumference or the wearer's chest size.

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In inches

Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 19.7" / Length: 26.4"
Sleeve: 31.9" (23.6") / Shoulder: 16.5"

Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 20.9" / Length: 27.6"
Sleeve: 32.3" (23.6") / Shoulder: 17.7"

Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 22.0" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.9" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.9"

Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 23.2" / Length: 29.5"
Sleeve: 35.0" (25.2") / Shoulder: 19.7"

Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 24.0" / Length: 29.9"
Sleeve: 35.8" (25.6") / Shoulder: 20.5"

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In centimeters

Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 50cm / Length: 67cm
Sleeve: 81cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 42cm

Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 53cm / Length: 70cm
Sleeve: 82cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 45cm

Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 56cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 86cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 48cm

Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 59cm / Length: 75cm
Sleeve: 89cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 50cm

Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 61cm / Length: 76cm
Sleeve: 91cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 52cm

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[How We Measure the Actual Garment]

Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3cm (about 1.2 in.) below the underarms.

Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, at the seam where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the hem. The height of the collar is not included.

Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.

Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam down to the end of the cuff.

Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured in a straight line from one shoulder seam to the other.

Made in Japan.
- Brand new, in unused condition.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat.
- Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.

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1950s U.S. Navy Utility Shirt Reproduction
This shirt is based on the chambray utility shirts adopted by the U.S. Navy during the 1950s. Chambray shirts served as practical work clothing for everyday naval duties, and this reproduction carries forward the construction details associated with those garments.

The separate collar stand, applied front placket, reinforced side gussets, and extended chainstitch ends reflect the utilitarian approach found in period work shirts. Attention to the fabric's uneven texture also contributes to the straightforward, rugged character of the original naval workwear.

100% Cotton Blue Chambray Fabric
The shirt is made from lightweight 100% cotton blue chambray. Blue warp yarns run lengthwise through the cloth, while off-white weft yarns cross them. Small portions of the lighter yarns remain visible between the blue yarns, producing the finely mottled, blue-and-white appearance characteristic of this material.

The two yarn colors remain distinguishable within the weave, and their relative visibility varies subtly across the surface. These variations give the fabric a sense of depth, with small changes in tone and texture instead of a completely uniform blue appearance.

Natural Yarn Irregularities, Slubs, and Neps
The fabric retains the uneven character of its yarns. Occasional thicker sections, or slubs, appear alongside small pale neps and irregular changes in tone. These details are part of the yarn and woven structure itself.

Subtle differences in yarn thickness combine with fine surface irregularities and natural creasing to create a texture that is more varied than that of a uniformly smooth cloth. The visible mixture of blue and off-white yarns adds another layer of variation, giving the chambray the rustic surface character associated with traditional workwear.

Lightweight Fabric with Moderate Crispness and Body
Although the chambray is thin and lightweight, it retains a moderate degree of crispness and body instead of hanging with a very soft, fluid drape. It does not have the weight or bulk of a heavyweight work-shirt fabric, but its uneven surface and natural creases give it a distinct visual presence despite its lighter construction.

This moderate firmness helps support the shirt's outline. As the garment is worn and washed, the initial crispness gradually relaxes and the fabric becomes more supple, allowing it to settle around the body while retaining the textured character of the chambray.

One-Wash Finish
The shirt is washed once during the finishing process. This initial wash moderates the fabric's early stiffness and gives it a more settled feel from the first wear, while preserving the moderate crispness and body characteristic of the chambray.

Prewashing also reduces the likelihood of substantial shrinkage compared with an unwashed garment. It does not guarantee that the dimensions will remain unchanged. Because the fabric is 100% cotton, some further shrinkage or other dimensional change may occur depending on washing methods, drying conditions, and differences between individual garments.

Changes in Texture and Color with Wear
Repeated wear and washing gradually make the fabric more supple, allowing its mottled appearance, yarn irregularities, and natural creases to settle into the garment. Fine puckering and subtle wear marks develop around the seams, while the tonal differences created by the blue warp and lighter weft become more apparent.

The blue tone gradually mellows with use. Changes in color combine with the shadows created by creases and the relief around the seams, giving the blue chambray an increasingly varied appearance shaped by the way the shirt is worn and cared for.

Regular Shirt Collar with a Separate Collar Stand
The neckline uses a conventional fold-over shirt collar supported by a separate collar stand. The stand forms the base of the collar, giving the neckline a moderate amount of height and a defined three-dimensional shape.

Supporting the folded collar above the neckline helps it retain a clear outline around the neck, consistent with the straightforward construction of a classic work shirt.

Six-Button Front with Reinforced Front Edges
The shirt opens fully down the front and fastens with six buttons, including the button at the neck. The buttons are positioned along the wearer's right front edge.

On that side, the body fabric is turned inward to form a double layer. This folded section functions as both a facing and reinforcement, supporting the edge where the buttons are attached.

The wearer's left front has a separately cut placket made from the same chambray. The placket is doubled and sewn onto the front panel, with vertical buttonholes along its length. The two front edges therefore use different methods of construction while providing reinforced areas for the opposing parts of the closure.

Buttoned Chest Patch Pockets with Reinforced Openings
A patch pocket is sewn directly onto the exterior of each chest panel. The pockets have no separate flaps. Instead, the upper edge of each pocket is folded inward to form a double-layer opening that reinforces the area most frequently handled when accessing the pocket.

A buttonhole is worked through this doubled upper section, and a button sewn to the shirt body fastens through it to hold the pocket opening closed. The closure is therefore built into the pocket mouth itself.

The lower corners of each pocket are gently rounded. This shape softens the outline of the pockets while preserving the practical patch-pocket arrangement characteristic of a work shirt.

Set-In Sleeves with One-Piece Sleeve Panels
The long sleeves use a conventional set-in construction. Each sleeve has a shaped sleeve cap that is sewn into the corresponding armhole in the body, establishing a defined attachment point at the shoulder.

Each sleeve is cut from a single fabric panel and joined along its underside to form a tube. Together, the shaped sleeve cap and underarm seam create a natural line from the shoulder down the arm, giving the upper body the familiar outline of a classic long-sleeve work shirt.

Single-Button Cuffs and Sleeve Plackets
Each sleeve ends in a cuff secured by one button. A sleeve placket extends upward from the cuff, finishing the slit that allows the lower sleeve to open.

Unfastening the cuff permits the wrist opening and adjoining slit to spread apart, making it easier to pass the hand through the sleeve. The same opening also allows the lower sleeve to be opened more fully when rolling it up.

Two-Hole Urea Buttons with Recessed Centers
The front, chest pockets, and cuffs use two-hole urea buttons in a blue tone that coordinates with the chambray. Each button has a dish-shaped face with a recessed center surrounded by a raised outer rim.

The attachment thread sits within this central recess instead of projecting prominently above the button face. Keeping the stitches seated in the recess helps limit their direct exposure to rubbing and snagging during wear, while supporting a more contained, stable arrangement of the sewing thread.

Tonal Blue Buttons and Off-White Contrast Stitching
The blue buttons blend with the general color of the fabric, while off-white sewing thread makes the stitch lines more visible. This combination draws attention to the construction around the front, pockets, shoulders, sleeves, and seams without adding separate decorative elements.

The contrast comes from the stitching used to assemble and finish the shirt. Its visible lines emphasize the functional structure associated with classic workwear.

Double-Layer Back Yoke
A back yoke connects the two shoulders across the upper back. It is made with two layers of fabric, reinforcing an area that is repeatedly subjected to movement and tension as the wearer moves the arms or puts on and removes the shirt.

The doubled fabric also helps stabilize the upper-back panel and maintain the structure around the shoulders. This reinforcement is concentrated in the yoke, supporting the upper body without changing the lightweight character of the fabric used elsewhere in the shirt.

Unpleated Back Panel
The back falls naturally from the yoke toward the hem without added pleats. The double-layer yoke provides reinforcement above, while the broad area below allows the lightweight chambray to display its natural texture.

Across this uninterrupted surface, the blue-and-off-white mottling, slight weaving irregularities, small neps, and natural creases remain visible. These details give the back a restrained appearance defined by the fabric itself.

Rounded Shirttail Hem
The hem follows a traditional rounded shirttail shape. Both the front and back sit lower at their centers and curve upward toward the side seams.

When the shirt is worn untucked, these gentle curves create a shaped lower outline that settles naturally around the body. The hem retains the familiar profile associated with classic work shirts.

Triangular Side Gussets with Selvedge Edges
Small triangular gussets reinforce the hem at the ends of both side seams. These junctions can be subjected to concentrated strain from body movement and pulling on the lower edge of the shirt.

Adding a separate reinforcement piece helps distribute force around the side-seam end and adjoining hem, reducing the tendency for these areas to tear or fray. This is a functional durability detail found on older work shirts.

The gussets incorporate the selvedge edge of the chambray fabric. This woven edge is visible only at the small reinforcement areas near the side hem, keeping the detail understated. It provides a visible connection to the way the cloth was woven and to the construction traditions of vintage workwear.

Two Rows of Chainstitch Run-Off at the Side Hems
Two chainstitch thread tails extend beyond the end of each side seam. These tails are formed when chainstitch sewing continues past the fabric edge, leaving a sequence of interlocking thread loops without fabric beneath them.

The run-off is deliberately left extending from the seams to reproduce a detail found on vintage work shirts. The length of the tails and the way the threads gather may vary slightly from one garment to another.

Two-Needle Felled Seams at Major Construction Points
Two-needle felled construction is used at major joining points, including the sides, shoulders, armholes, back yoke, and sleeve underarm seams. These areas are repeatedly subjected to movement and pulling during wear.

In this construction, the fabric edges and seam allowances are folded inward and enclosed as the panels are joined with two parallel rows of stitching. Enclosing the cut edges helps keep the seam allowances stable and limits fraying, while the paired stitch rows reinforce the join and help distribute stress along the seam.

The off-white parallel stitch lines remain visible against the blue chambray, emphasizing the shirt's panel construction. As the garment is worn and washed, fine puckering and subtle wear marks develop around these joins, gradually giving the seams and surrounding fabric greater surface relief.

Interior Woven Label and Military-Style Stencil Print
A Buzz Rickson & Co. woven label is attached inside the collar area. Above it, a stencil-style print reproduces the appearance of size and contract markings associated with period military garments.

These identifying details are placed inside the shirt, leaving the exterior free of large brand logos and added decorative graphics. The labeling carries the brand identity and military reference while preserving the understated appearance of the outer fabric and construction.

Made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's BR25995 is made in Japan. Based on a 1950s U.S. Navy utility shirt, it combines lightweight, textured cotton chambray with a supported shirt collar, reinforced button front and pocket openings, single-button cuffs, a double-layer back yoke, selvedge gussets, and two-needle felled seams.

The tonal buttons, off-white stitch lines, and retained chainstitch ends allow the functional construction to form part of the design. Together with the slightly trim silhouette and one-wash finish, these details preserve the practical character of vintage naval workwear in a shirt suited to everyday casual wear.

Buzz Rickson's by Toyo Enterprises / Lot No. BR25995 / Blue Chambray Work Shirt (Long Sleeve)

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Care Instructions
Machine wash on a very gentle cycle at a maximum water temperature of 30°C (86°F).
Do not bleach. Do not use chlorine bleach or oxygen bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron on a low setting with a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with petroleum-based solvents is permitted using a gentle process.
Professional wet cleaning is permitted using a gentle process.

The shirt has been washed once during finishing. Some further shrinkage or other dimensional change may still occur depending on the washing and drying methods used and differences between individual garments.

Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.

Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken manually with the garment laid flat.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.