Buzz Rickson's Men's Herringbone Work Shirt, High-Density Cotton Long-Sleeve Button-Up Shirt, Made in Japan (BR29390 149 Olive)
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¥21,800 JPY
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Buzz Rickson's Men's Herringbone Work Shirt, High-Density Cotton Long-Sleeve Button-Up Shirt, Made in Japan (BR29390)
Buzz Rickson
Available Colors
This men's long-sleeve button-up shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military-inspired label specializing in vintage American military clothing. Based on the practical design of vintage American work shirts, it is constructed from high-density herringbone twill (HBT) fabric made from 100% cotton. The tightly woven fabric has a substantial shirt-weight body with firm structure, clearly defined V-shaped weave lines, minimal surface fuzz, and a naturally textured appearance with subtle wrinkling. Depending on the angle and lighting, variations in the herringbone weave become more pronounced and create a restrained matte sheen. Practical details include a standard point collar with a collar stand, two flapless chest patch pockets with button closures, long set-in sleeves, single-button cuffs, a straight back yoke, double-needle felled seams at key areas, triangular side gussets, chain-stitch runoff at the side seams, two-hole buttons, and a rounded shirttail hem. Buzz Rickson's careful attention to fabric, construction, and functional details gives the shirt the rugged, utilitarian character associated with vintage American military and workwear while maintaining practical everyday wearability. Its classic, well-balanced design fits naturally into a contemporary casual wardrobe.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
This item generally fits close to standard U.S./EU sizing, but it is cut in a relaxed, classic work-shirt fit with additional room through the chest and shoulders. The proportions provide comfortable ease without creating an excessively oversized appearance. The body falls relatively straight from the chest toward the hem, while the rounded shirttail hem provides traditional coverage and allows the shirt to sit naturally when worn either tucked or untucked.
The high-density cotton herringbone twill fabric has a firm structure and a substantial shirt-weight body. This makes the shirt suitable for wearing on its own or open over a T-shirt as a light overshirt or shirt jacket. Although the silhouette is roomier than a typical regular fit, its balanced proportions prevent it from looking excessively large and also allow it to be worn beneath many casual jackets and outerwear garments. This versatile cut works well with a wide range of layered outfits.
Because fit may vary depending on body type and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. For the most accurate comparison, we recommend measuring a similar long-sleeve shirt that fits you well. All measurements are taken by hand with a measuring tape, so slight variations may occur from one garment to another and depending on the measuring method.
Our model is wearing a tagged size S (14-14 1/2). He stands 5'9" (175 cm) tall, weighs 127 lbs (58 kg), and has a 36-inch (91 cm) chest. He typically wears a U.S./EU size S (36) in most garments.
The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements.
Please compare them with a similar shirt from your wardrobe to get a better sense of the fit.
In inches
Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 21.3" / Length: 27.6"
Sleeve: 31.9" (23.2") / Shoulder: 17.3"
Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 22.0" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.1" (24.0") / Shoulder: 18.1"
Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 22.8" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.5"
Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 24.0" / Length: 29.5"
Sleeve: 34.6" (25.2") / Shoulder: 19.3"
Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 24.8" / Length: 30.3"
Sleeve: 35.0" (25.2") / Shoulder: 20.1"
In centimeters
Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 54cm / Length: 70cm
Sleeve: 81cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 44cm
Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 56cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 84cm (61cm) / Shoulder: 46cm
Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 58cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 47cm
Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 61cm / Length: 75cm
Sleeve: 88cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 49cm
Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 63cm / Length: 77cm
Sleeve: 89cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 51cm
[How](https://rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com/pages/how-to-measure-the-clothing%22>[How) We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3 cm (about 1.2 in.) below the armholes.
Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the back hem.
Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam straight down to the end of the cuff.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.
Made in Japan.
Brand new with tags, in unused condition.
*All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
Product Overview:
This men's long-sleeve button-up shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military-inspired label specializing in vintage American military clothing. Based on the practical construction of classic American work shirts, it is made from high-density herringbone twill (HBT) fabric woven from 100% cotton. The tightly constructed fabric has a substantial shirt-weight body, firm structure, clearly defined V-shaped weave lines, minimal surface fuzz, and natural creasing that gives the material a dimensional appearance.
The design combines fabric and construction details historically associated with American military work clothing and civilian workwear. These include a standard point collar with a collar stand, two flapless chest patch pockets with button closures, long set-in sleeves, single-button cuffs, a double-layer back yoke, double-needle felled seams, triangular side gussets, chain-stitch runoff at the lower side seams, two-hole buttons, and a rounded shirttail hem.
Buzz Rickson's careful attention to fabric, construction, and functional detailing gives the shirt the rugged, utilitarian character of vintage American workwear while maintaining practical everyday wearability. Its balanced design can be worn as a traditional button-up shirt, as a light overshirt, or as part of a layered casual outfit.
Fit and Silhouette:
The shirt is cut in a relaxed, classic work-shirt fit with additional room through the chest and shoulders. It provides comfortable ease without creating an excessively oversized appearance. From the chest toward the hem, the body follows a relatively straight line rather than tapering closely around the waist. This produces a practical silhouette that allows natural movement and remains consistent with the proportions of traditional work clothing.
The high-density herringbone fabric has enough firmness and structure to hold the outline of the shirt without clinging closely to the body. It can be worn buttoned as a standalone shirt or left open over a T-shirt as a light overshirt or shirt jacket. Although the cut is roomier than a typical modern regular fit, the shoulder width, body width, sleeve proportions, and length are balanced to prevent the garment from appearing excessively large.
The shirt can also be worn beneath many casual jackets and outerwear garments. Its relaxed construction provides room for layering, while the relatively straight body and controlled overall proportions allow it to fit naturally into a wide range of casual and workwear-inspired outfits.
Overall Design and Construction:
The shirt has a fully opening button front and a standard point collar supported by a separate collar stand. Two symmetrical patch pockets are sewn directly onto the chest. Each pocket is constructed without a separate flap and is secured at the center of the reinforced pocket opening with a two-hole button.
The long sleeves use set-in construction, with each sleeve joined to a defined armhole at the outer edge of the shoulder. The sleeve openings are finished with single-button cuffs, and a straight back yoke reinforces the upper section of the shirt. The front and back hems form a traditional rounded shirttail shape that rises gradually toward the side seams.
Double-needle felled construction is used at major seams that are regularly subjected to movement and tension. Triangular gussets reinforce the lower ends of the side seams, while intentionally untrimmed chain-stitch runoff reproduces a construction detail commonly associated with vintage work shirts. These practical elements are integrated into a clean, balanced design that remains easy to wear as contemporary casual clothing.
High-Density Cotton Herringbone Twill Fabric:
The material is a high-density herringbone twill woven entirely from cotton. Herringbone twill, commonly abbreviated as HBT, is produced by reversing the direction of the diagonal twill lines at regular intervals. This alternating twill direction creates the characteristic V-shaped or broken-chevron pattern visible across the surface of the fabric.
The warp and weft yarns are set closely together to form a compact, tightly constructed fabric. This high-density weave gives the material a substantial shirt-weight body with firm structure, pronounced resilience, and a clearly defined woven surface. Although the fabric is not excessively heavy, it has noticeably more body and stability than a lightweight shirting fabric.
The surface has very little brushing or raised fuzz. It appears relatively flat and clean, but it is not completely smooth. The individual twill lines remain visible and give the fabric a dry, structured texture that allows the woven construction to be felt as well as seen. Natural creasing and slight surface irregularities prevent the material from appearing mechanically uniform and add dimensional character associated with washed vintage garments.
As the angle of the fabric or the direction of the light changes, the alternating twill lines reflect light differently. This causes subtle tonal variation within the herringbone pattern and produces restrained, low-luster highlights rather than a glossy finish. The result is a rugged, visually detailed surface characteristic of herringbone fabrics historically used for military work uniforms and civilian workwear.
One-Wash Finish:
The completed shirt has been given a one-wash finish. This garment-washing process relaxes some of the initial rigidity of the tightly woven herringbone fabric while preserving its substantial body, firm hand, and structural stability. The shirt therefore has a more natural feel and drape from the beginning than the same fabric would have in a completely unwashed condition.
Washing the finished garment also brings out the definition of the herringbone weave, slight surface undulation, and natural creasing around the seams. These characteristics give the shirt a less uniform appearance and help establish its vintage-inspired character before extended wear.
Because the shirt has already been washed during production, the possibility of major initial shrinkage is reduced compared with an untreated, raw garment. However, the fabric is not completely shrink-proof. Additional minor shrinkage may still occur depending on water temperature, washing method, agitation, and drying conditions.
With continued wear and laundering, the cotton fabric will gradually become more flexible and comfortable. The woven texture, seam puckering, creases, and other natural characteristics of the material will also become more pronounced, allowing the shirt to develop a more personalized appearance over time.
Point Collar with Collar Stand:
The shirt has a standard point collar supported by a separate collar stand. The collar tapers gradually toward the points, producing a traditional shape consistent with classic button-up work shirts. The collar stand reinforces the base of the collar, raises it slightly from the neckline, and helps maintain a stable three-dimensional shape around the neck.
Unlike an open collar designed primarily to lie flat with the neckline open, this construction allows the shirt to be buttoned completely to the top. When the top button is fastened, the collar maintains a clean and orderly appearance. When the top button is left open, the collar separates naturally at the neckline for a more relaxed everyday look.
The structure is practical for several methods of wear. The collar remains visually defined when the shirt is worn by itself, under a jacket, or open over a T-shirt, while retaining the straightforward appearance of traditional American work clothing.
Full-Open Front and Placket Construction:
The front opens completely from the collar to the hem and is secured with six buttons. The two front edges use different construction methods. The left front panel has a separately cut self-fabric placket attached to the body. This applied placket creates a double layer of fabric along the front edge and provides added structure around the buttonholes.
On the right front panel, the fabric at the edge is turned inward to form an integrated facing. This folded construction reinforces the button side without requiring a separate applied placket. Together, the two front treatments stabilize the opening, help maintain a straight front edge, and provide sufficient strength for repeated buttoning and unbuttoning.
The six corresponding buttonholes are positioned vertically, parallel to the direction of the front opening. This orientation follows the conventional construction of button-front shirts and allows the opening to respond naturally to vertical tension during wear. The combination of an applied placket, a turned-back facing, and reinforced front edges contributes to the durable, functional character of the garment.
Urea Buttons:
The front closure, chest pockets, and cuffs are fitted with round two-hole urea buttons. Their simple, functional construction and subtly textured appearance are consistent with the practical button styles traditionally used on vintage work clothing.
The two-hole configuration allows each button to be attached securely while maintaining a clean, restrained appearance. Unlike decorative or highly detailed buttons, these buttons do not compete visually with the herringbone fabric. Their simple form complements the practical design of the shirt and allows the texture of the material and the visible seam construction to remain the primary visual features.
Long Set-In Sleeves:
The shirt has long set-in sleeves. In this construction, the curved sleeve head is sewn into a defined armhole, and the sleeve begins at the outer edge of the shoulder seam. This traditional arrangement helps establish the shape of the shoulders while allowing the sleeves to fall naturally along the arms.
Set-in sleeves provide a more structured shoulder line than dropped-shoulder construction. At the same time, the relaxed body and shoulder dimensions allow sufficient room for normal arm movement. The result is a classic shirt construction that balances definition through the shoulders with the practical ease expected from workwear.
Flapless Chest Patch Pockets:
Two symmetrical patch pockets are sewn directly onto the exterior of the chest. The pockets do not use separate flaps. Instead, the upper edge of each pocket is turned inward to create a double-layer opening that reinforces the area most frequently handled during use.
Visible stitching secures the folded upper section, and a two-hole button closure is positioned at the center of each pocket opening. This structure allows the opening to be secured without adding the additional fabric and visual weight of an independent pocket flap.
The lower corners of each pocket are cut at an angle rather than formed as fully rounded corners. This gives the pockets a geometric, workwear-oriented shape based primarily on straight lines. The flapless construction keeps the chest visually clean and allows the direction and texture of the herringbone weave to remain clearly visible across the front of the shirt.
Single-Button Cuffs and Sleeve Openings:
Each sleeve is finished with a single-button cuff. The cuff ends have straight, square corners rather than rounded edges, reinforcing the shirt's simple and functional workwear appearance.
The cuff buttonhole is positioned horizontally in relation to the sleeve opening. This orientation allows the buttonhole to respond to the lateral tension placed on the cuff when it is closed around the wrist. The single-button configuration keeps the construction uncomplicated and allows the cuff to be opened and closed easily.
A slit opening is incorporated above each cuff. When the cuff button is released, this opening allows the lower sleeve to spread wider so that the hand can pass through comfortably. It also makes the sleeve easier to turn back when the shirt is worn with the cuffs rolled. This is a practical construction detail that supports both ease of dressing and everyday versatility.
Double-Layer Back Yoke:
The upper back is divided by a straight back yoke extending across the shoulders. The yoke is made with two layers of fabric, adding reinforcement and stability to an area that is repeatedly subjected to movement when the shirt is put on, removed, or worn during normal arm movement.
The double-layer construction gives the upper back additional body and helps distribute tension across the shoulders. It also helps the shoulder area maintain its shape through repeated wear and laundering. Because the yoke is structurally firmer than the single-layer lower back, it provides a stable transition between the collar, shoulders, sleeves, and main body of the shirt.
Directional Use of the Herringbone Weave:
The herringbone fabric is cut in different directions at selected areas of the shirt. On the main body panels, the V-shaped herringbone lines are oriented so that the pattern flows vertically. This placement emphasizes the length of the body and provides a consistent visual direction across the front and back panels.
At the back yoke and cuffs, the fabric direction is rotated so that the herringbone pattern runs horizontally. The contrast between the vertically oriented body and the horizontally oriented yoke and cuffs creates subtle visual separation without introducing another fabric, color, or decorative trim.
This directional change makes deliberate use of the woven pattern itself as a design element. It adds visual variation while preserving the restrained, functional appearance of the shirt.
Rounded Shirttail Hem:
The front and back hems form a traditional rounded shirttail shape. The hem is lower at the center of the front and back panels and rises gradually toward the side seams. This curved construction provides appropriate coverage around the waist and hips while maintaining the proportions associated with classic work shirts.
When the shirt is worn untucked, the gradual curves prevent the lower edge from appearing completely straight or visually heavy. The hem follows the contours of the body more naturally and produces a balanced transition between the longer center sections and the higher side seams.
The rounded shape also allows the shirt to be worn tucked into pants without excessive fabric accumulating at the sides. As a result, the hem supports both tucked and untucked styling while retaining its traditional work-shirt appearance.
Triangular Side Gussets:
A triangular side gusset is installed at the lower end of each side seam. The point where the side seam meets the hem is particularly vulnerable to stress because pulling from the body, arm movement, and tension across the lower shirt can become concentrated at this location.
The additional gusset material reinforces the seam intersection and helps distribute tension over a broader area. This reduces direct strain on the terminal point of the side seam and helps protect the lower edge from tearing or fraying during repeated wear.
Side gussets are a traditional functional detail found on older work shirts. Their purpose is structural rather than ornamental, reflecting a method of construction developed to improve durability in areas exposed to repeated movement and mechanical stress.
Chain-Stitch Runoff:
Two chain-stitch runoff tails are deliberately left extending from the lower side seams. Chain-stitch runoff is created when the sewing machine continues feeding thread after the seam has passed beyond the edge of the fabric. The interlocking thread loops continue without fabric between them, forming narrow chains of linked stitches.
These tails are not simply loose strands twisted together and attached to the hem. They are direct continuations of the chain stitching used in the side-seam construction. Leaving them untrimmed reproduces a manufacturing detail associated with vintage American work shirts and older production methods.
Because the runoff hangs freely below the side seams, its length, direction, and the way the thread chains gather may vary slightly from one garment to another. These variations are normal. The visible thread chains are not evidence of unfinished sewing, loose stitching, or a missed trimming operation. They are an intentional design and construction detail used to reproduce the character of vintage workwear.
Double-Needle Felled Seam Construction:
Double-needle felled seams are used at major structural areas, including the side seams, shoulder seams, and armholes. These locations are regularly subjected to pulling, movement, and repeated stress during wear.
In felled seam construction, the raw fabric edges and seam allowances are folded and enclosed within the seam rather than being left exposed on the interior. Two parallel rows of stitching secure the folded layers. Encasing the cut edges helps control fraying, keeps the seam allowances stable, and creates a cleaner interior finish.
The two parallel stitch lines secure a wider section of fabric than a single row of stitching and help distribute stress along the length of the seam. This is particularly useful at the armholes, which move repeatedly with the arms, and at the side seams, which are exposed to pulling as the body bends, reaches, and rotates.
The parallel stitch lines remain visible on the exterior and clearly express the structural construction of the shirt. They contribute to the strong, utilitarian appearance associated with vintage workwear. With repeated wear and laundering, subtle puckering and abrasion marks may develop around these seams, gradually increasing the dimensional character of the garment.
Overall Product Character:
This shirt combines the practical construction of a classic American work shirt with compact, high-density cotton herringbone twill. The clearly defined V-shaped weave, firm structure, minimal surface fuzz, natural creasing, reinforced seams, side gussets, and chain-stitch runoff give the garment the rugged and functional appearance associated with vintage American military clothing and civilian workwear.
At the same time, the flapless chest pockets, restrained two-hole buttons, balanced proportions, and clean overall layout allow the shirt to integrate naturally into a contemporary casual wardrobe. It can be worn as a conventional button-up shirt, as a light outer layer over a T-shirt, or beneath a casual jacket when additional layering is required.
Care Instructions:
Machine wash at or below 86°F (30°C) using a very gentle cycle.
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron at a low temperature using a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with a petroleum solvent is permitted using a mild process.
Professional wet cleaning is permitted using a mild process.
Please Note:
*Our online inventory is shared with our physical retail store. As a result, stock quantities displayed online may not always be updated in real time.
*In rare cases, an item may already be sold out by the time an order is received. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
*All garment measurements are taken by hand with the item laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Minor measurement differences may occur due to individual garment variation and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photographs due to lighting conditions and individual monitor or screen settings.
Buzz Rickson
Available Colors
This men's long-sleeve button-up shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military-inspired label specializing in vintage American military clothing. Based on the practical design of vintage American work shirts, it is constructed from high-density herringbone twill (HBT) fabric made from 100% cotton. The tightly woven fabric has a substantial shirt-weight body with firm structure, clearly defined V-shaped weave lines, minimal surface fuzz, and a naturally textured appearance with subtle wrinkling. Depending on the angle and lighting, variations in the herringbone weave become more pronounced and create a restrained matte sheen. Practical details include a standard point collar with a collar stand, two flapless chest patch pockets with button closures, long set-in sleeves, single-button cuffs, a straight back yoke, double-needle felled seams at key areas, triangular side gussets, chain-stitch runoff at the side seams, two-hole buttons, and a rounded shirttail hem. Buzz Rickson's careful attention to fabric, construction, and functional details gives the shirt the rugged, utilitarian character associated with vintage American military and workwear while maintaining practical everyday wearability. Its classic, well-balanced design fits naturally into a contemporary casual wardrobe.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
This item generally fits close to standard U.S./EU sizing, but it is cut in a relaxed, classic work-shirt fit with additional room through the chest and shoulders. The proportions provide comfortable ease without creating an excessively oversized appearance. The body falls relatively straight from the chest toward the hem, while the rounded shirttail hem provides traditional coverage and allows the shirt to sit naturally when worn either tucked or untucked.
The high-density cotton herringbone twill fabric has a firm structure and a substantial shirt-weight body. This makes the shirt suitable for wearing on its own or open over a T-shirt as a light overshirt or shirt jacket. Although the silhouette is roomier than a typical regular fit, its balanced proportions prevent it from looking excessively large and also allow it to be worn beneath many casual jackets and outerwear garments. This versatile cut works well with a wide range of layered outfits.
Because fit may vary depending on body type and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. For the most accurate comparison, we recommend measuring a similar long-sleeve shirt that fits you well. All measurements are taken by hand with a measuring tape, so slight variations may occur from one garment to another and depending on the measuring method.
Our model is wearing a tagged size S (14-14 1/2). He stands 5'9" (175 cm) tall, weighs 127 lbs (58 kg), and has a 36-inch (91 cm) chest. He typically wears a U.S./EU size S (36) in most garments.
The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements.
Please compare them with a similar shirt from your wardrobe to get a better sense of the fit.
In inches
Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 21.3" / Length: 27.6"
Sleeve: 31.9" (23.2") / Shoulder: 17.3"
Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 22.0" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.1" (24.0") / Shoulder: 18.1"
Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 22.8" / Length: 28.7"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.5"
Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 24.0" / Length: 29.5"
Sleeve: 34.6" (25.2") / Shoulder: 19.3"
Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 24.8" / Length: 30.3"
Sleeve: 35.0" (25.2") / Shoulder: 20.1"
In centimeters
Tagged Size S (14-14 1/2)
Width: 54cm / Length: 70cm
Sleeve: 81cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 44cm
Tagged Size M (15-15 1/2)
Width: 56cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 84cm (61cm) / Shoulder: 46cm
Tagged Size L (16-16 1/2)
Width: 58cm / Length: 73cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 47cm
Tagged Size XL (17-17 1/2)
Width: 61cm / Length: 75cm
Sleeve: 88cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 49cm
Tagged Size XXL (18-18 1/2)
Width: 63cm / Length: 77cm
Sleeve: 89cm (64cm) / Shoulder: 51cm
[How](https://rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com/pages/how-to-measure-the-clothing%22>[How) We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3 cm (about 1.2 in.) below the armholes.
Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar joins the body, straight down to the bottom of the back hem.
Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam straight down to the end of the cuff.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.
Made in Japan.
Brand new with tags, in unused condition.
*All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
Product Overview:
This men's long-sleeve button-up shirt is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military-inspired label specializing in vintage American military clothing. Based on the practical construction of classic American work shirts, it is made from high-density herringbone twill (HBT) fabric woven from 100% cotton. The tightly constructed fabric has a substantial shirt-weight body, firm structure, clearly defined V-shaped weave lines, minimal surface fuzz, and natural creasing that gives the material a dimensional appearance.
The design combines fabric and construction details historically associated with American military work clothing and civilian workwear. These include a standard point collar with a collar stand, two flapless chest patch pockets with button closures, long set-in sleeves, single-button cuffs, a double-layer back yoke, double-needle felled seams, triangular side gussets, chain-stitch runoff at the lower side seams, two-hole buttons, and a rounded shirttail hem.
Buzz Rickson's careful attention to fabric, construction, and functional detailing gives the shirt the rugged, utilitarian character of vintage American workwear while maintaining practical everyday wearability. Its balanced design can be worn as a traditional button-up shirt, as a light overshirt, or as part of a layered casual outfit.
Fit and Silhouette:
The shirt is cut in a relaxed, classic work-shirt fit with additional room through the chest and shoulders. It provides comfortable ease without creating an excessively oversized appearance. From the chest toward the hem, the body follows a relatively straight line rather than tapering closely around the waist. This produces a practical silhouette that allows natural movement and remains consistent with the proportions of traditional work clothing.
The high-density herringbone fabric has enough firmness and structure to hold the outline of the shirt without clinging closely to the body. It can be worn buttoned as a standalone shirt or left open over a T-shirt as a light overshirt or shirt jacket. Although the cut is roomier than a typical modern regular fit, the shoulder width, body width, sleeve proportions, and length are balanced to prevent the garment from appearing excessively large.
The shirt can also be worn beneath many casual jackets and outerwear garments. Its relaxed construction provides room for layering, while the relatively straight body and controlled overall proportions allow it to fit naturally into a wide range of casual and workwear-inspired outfits.
Overall Design and Construction:
The shirt has a fully opening button front and a standard point collar supported by a separate collar stand. Two symmetrical patch pockets are sewn directly onto the chest. Each pocket is constructed without a separate flap and is secured at the center of the reinforced pocket opening with a two-hole button.
The long sleeves use set-in construction, with each sleeve joined to a defined armhole at the outer edge of the shoulder. The sleeve openings are finished with single-button cuffs, and a straight back yoke reinforces the upper section of the shirt. The front and back hems form a traditional rounded shirttail shape that rises gradually toward the side seams.
Double-needle felled construction is used at major seams that are regularly subjected to movement and tension. Triangular gussets reinforce the lower ends of the side seams, while intentionally untrimmed chain-stitch runoff reproduces a construction detail commonly associated with vintage work shirts. These practical elements are integrated into a clean, balanced design that remains easy to wear as contemporary casual clothing.
High-Density Cotton Herringbone Twill Fabric:
The material is a high-density herringbone twill woven entirely from cotton. Herringbone twill, commonly abbreviated as HBT, is produced by reversing the direction of the diagonal twill lines at regular intervals. This alternating twill direction creates the characteristic V-shaped or broken-chevron pattern visible across the surface of the fabric.
The warp and weft yarns are set closely together to form a compact, tightly constructed fabric. This high-density weave gives the material a substantial shirt-weight body with firm structure, pronounced resilience, and a clearly defined woven surface. Although the fabric is not excessively heavy, it has noticeably more body and stability than a lightweight shirting fabric.
The surface has very little brushing or raised fuzz. It appears relatively flat and clean, but it is not completely smooth. The individual twill lines remain visible and give the fabric a dry, structured texture that allows the woven construction to be felt as well as seen. Natural creasing and slight surface irregularities prevent the material from appearing mechanically uniform and add dimensional character associated with washed vintage garments.
As the angle of the fabric or the direction of the light changes, the alternating twill lines reflect light differently. This causes subtle tonal variation within the herringbone pattern and produces restrained, low-luster highlights rather than a glossy finish. The result is a rugged, visually detailed surface characteristic of herringbone fabrics historically used for military work uniforms and civilian workwear.
One-Wash Finish:
The completed shirt has been given a one-wash finish. This garment-washing process relaxes some of the initial rigidity of the tightly woven herringbone fabric while preserving its substantial body, firm hand, and structural stability. The shirt therefore has a more natural feel and drape from the beginning than the same fabric would have in a completely unwashed condition.
Washing the finished garment also brings out the definition of the herringbone weave, slight surface undulation, and natural creasing around the seams. These characteristics give the shirt a less uniform appearance and help establish its vintage-inspired character before extended wear.
Because the shirt has already been washed during production, the possibility of major initial shrinkage is reduced compared with an untreated, raw garment. However, the fabric is not completely shrink-proof. Additional minor shrinkage may still occur depending on water temperature, washing method, agitation, and drying conditions.
With continued wear and laundering, the cotton fabric will gradually become more flexible and comfortable. The woven texture, seam puckering, creases, and other natural characteristics of the material will also become more pronounced, allowing the shirt to develop a more personalized appearance over time.
Point Collar with Collar Stand:
The shirt has a standard point collar supported by a separate collar stand. The collar tapers gradually toward the points, producing a traditional shape consistent with classic button-up work shirts. The collar stand reinforces the base of the collar, raises it slightly from the neckline, and helps maintain a stable three-dimensional shape around the neck.
Unlike an open collar designed primarily to lie flat with the neckline open, this construction allows the shirt to be buttoned completely to the top. When the top button is fastened, the collar maintains a clean and orderly appearance. When the top button is left open, the collar separates naturally at the neckline for a more relaxed everyday look.
The structure is practical for several methods of wear. The collar remains visually defined when the shirt is worn by itself, under a jacket, or open over a T-shirt, while retaining the straightforward appearance of traditional American work clothing.
Full-Open Front and Placket Construction:
The front opens completely from the collar to the hem and is secured with six buttons. The two front edges use different construction methods. The left front panel has a separately cut self-fabric placket attached to the body. This applied placket creates a double layer of fabric along the front edge and provides added structure around the buttonholes.
On the right front panel, the fabric at the edge is turned inward to form an integrated facing. This folded construction reinforces the button side without requiring a separate applied placket. Together, the two front treatments stabilize the opening, help maintain a straight front edge, and provide sufficient strength for repeated buttoning and unbuttoning.
The six corresponding buttonholes are positioned vertically, parallel to the direction of the front opening. This orientation follows the conventional construction of button-front shirts and allows the opening to respond naturally to vertical tension during wear. The combination of an applied placket, a turned-back facing, and reinforced front edges contributes to the durable, functional character of the garment.
Urea Buttons:
The front closure, chest pockets, and cuffs are fitted with round two-hole urea buttons. Their simple, functional construction and subtly textured appearance are consistent with the practical button styles traditionally used on vintage work clothing.
The two-hole configuration allows each button to be attached securely while maintaining a clean, restrained appearance. Unlike decorative or highly detailed buttons, these buttons do not compete visually with the herringbone fabric. Their simple form complements the practical design of the shirt and allows the texture of the material and the visible seam construction to remain the primary visual features.
Long Set-In Sleeves:
The shirt has long set-in sleeves. In this construction, the curved sleeve head is sewn into a defined armhole, and the sleeve begins at the outer edge of the shoulder seam. This traditional arrangement helps establish the shape of the shoulders while allowing the sleeves to fall naturally along the arms.
Set-in sleeves provide a more structured shoulder line than dropped-shoulder construction. At the same time, the relaxed body and shoulder dimensions allow sufficient room for normal arm movement. The result is a classic shirt construction that balances definition through the shoulders with the practical ease expected from workwear.
Flapless Chest Patch Pockets:
Two symmetrical patch pockets are sewn directly onto the exterior of the chest. The pockets do not use separate flaps. Instead, the upper edge of each pocket is turned inward to create a double-layer opening that reinforces the area most frequently handled during use.
Visible stitching secures the folded upper section, and a two-hole button closure is positioned at the center of each pocket opening. This structure allows the opening to be secured without adding the additional fabric and visual weight of an independent pocket flap.
The lower corners of each pocket are cut at an angle rather than formed as fully rounded corners. This gives the pockets a geometric, workwear-oriented shape based primarily on straight lines. The flapless construction keeps the chest visually clean and allows the direction and texture of the herringbone weave to remain clearly visible across the front of the shirt.
Single-Button Cuffs and Sleeve Openings:
Each sleeve is finished with a single-button cuff. The cuff ends have straight, square corners rather than rounded edges, reinforcing the shirt's simple and functional workwear appearance.
The cuff buttonhole is positioned horizontally in relation to the sleeve opening. This orientation allows the buttonhole to respond to the lateral tension placed on the cuff when it is closed around the wrist. The single-button configuration keeps the construction uncomplicated and allows the cuff to be opened and closed easily.
A slit opening is incorporated above each cuff. When the cuff button is released, this opening allows the lower sleeve to spread wider so that the hand can pass through comfortably. It also makes the sleeve easier to turn back when the shirt is worn with the cuffs rolled. This is a practical construction detail that supports both ease of dressing and everyday versatility.
Double-Layer Back Yoke:
The upper back is divided by a straight back yoke extending across the shoulders. The yoke is made with two layers of fabric, adding reinforcement and stability to an area that is repeatedly subjected to movement when the shirt is put on, removed, or worn during normal arm movement.
The double-layer construction gives the upper back additional body and helps distribute tension across the shoulders. It also helps the shoulder area maintain its shape through repeated wear and laundering. Because the yoke is structurally firmer than the single-layer lower back, it provides a stable transition between the collar, shoulders, sleeves, and main body of the shirt.
Directional Use of the Herringbone Weave:
The herringbone fabric is cut in different directions at selected areas of the shirt. On the main body panels, the V-shaped herringbone lines are oriented so that the pattern flows vertically. This placement emphasizes the length of the body and provides a consistent visual direction across the front and back panels.
At the back yoke and cuffs, the fabric direction is rotated so that the herringbone pattern runs horizontally. The contrast between the vertically oriented body and the horizontally oriented yoke and cuffs creates subtle visual separation without introducing another fabric, color, or decorative trim.
This directional change makes deliberate use of the woven pattern itself as a design element. It adds visual variation while preserving the restrained, functional appearance of the shirt.
Rounded Shirttail Hem:
The front and back hems form a traditional rounded shirttail shape. The hem is lower at the center of the front and back panels and rises gradually toward the side seams. This curved construction provides appropriate coverage around the waist and hips while maintaining the proportions associated with classic work shirts.
When the shirt is worn untucked, the gradual curves prevent the lower edge from appearing completely straight or visually heavy. The hem follows the contours of the body more naturally and produces a balanced transition between the longer center sections and the higher side seams.
The rounded shape also allows the shirt to be worn tucked into pants without excessive fabric accumulating at the sides. As a result, the hem supports both tucked and untucked styling while retaining its traditional work-shirt appearance.
Triangular Side Gussets:
A triangular side gusset is installed at the lower end of each side seam. The point where the side seam meets the hem is particularly vulnerable to stress because pulling from the body, arm movement, and tension across the lower shirt can become concentrated at this location.
The additional gusset material reinforces the seam intersection and helps distribute tension over a broader area. This reduces direct strain on the terminal point of the side seam and helps protect the lower edge from tearing or fraying during repeated wear.
Side gussets are a traditional functional detail found on older work shirts. Their purpose is structural rather than ornamental, reflecting a method of construction developed to improve durability in areas exposed to repeated movement and mechanical stress.
Chain-Stitch Runoff:
Two chain-stitch runoff tails are deliberately left extending from the lower side seams. Chain-stitch runoff is created when the sewing machine continues feeding thread after the seam has passed beyond the edge of the fabric. The interlocking thread loops continue without fabric between them, forming narrow chains of linked stitches.
These tails are not simply loose strands twisted together and attached to the hem. They are direct continuations of the chain stitching used in the side-seam construction. Leaving them untrimmed reproduces a manufacturing detail associated with vintage American work shirts and older production methods.
Because the runoff hangs freely below the side seams, its length, direction, and the way the thread chains gather may vary slightly from one garment to another. These variations are normal. The visible thread chains are not evidence of unfinished sewing, loose stitching, or a missed trimming operation. They are an intentional design and construction detail used to reproduce the character of vintage workwear.
Double-Needle Felled Seam Construction:
Double-needle felled seams are used at major structural areas, including the side seams, shoulder seams, and armholes. These locations are regularly subjected to pulling, movement, and repeated stress during wear.
In felled seam construction, the raw fabric edges and seam allowances are folded and enclosed within the seam rather than being left exposed on the interior. Two parallel rows of stitching secure the folded layers. Encasing the cut edges helps control fraying, keeps the seam allowances stable, and creates a cleaner interior finish.
The two parallel stitch lines secure a wider section of fabric than a single row of stitching and help distribute stress along the length of the seam. This is particularly useful at the armholes, which move repeatedly with the arms, and at the side seams, which are exposed to pulling as the body bends, reaches, and rotates.
The parallel stitch lines remain visible on the exterior and clearly express the structural construction of the shirt. They contribute to the strong, utilitarian appearance associated with vintage workwear. With repeated wear and laundering, subtle puckering and abrasion marks may develop around these seams, gradually increasing the dimensional character of the garment.
Overall Product Character:
This shirt combines the practical construction of a classic American work shirt with compact, high-density cotton herringbone twill. The clearly defined V-shaped weave, firm structure, minimal surface fuzz, natural creasing, reinforced seams, side gussets, and chain-stitch runoff give the garment the rugged and functional appearance associated with vintage American military clothing and civilian workwear.
At the same time, the flapless chest pockets, restrained two-hole buttons, balanced proportions, and clean overall layout allow the shirt to integrate naturally into a contemporary casual wardrobe. It can be worn as a conventional button-up shirt, as a light outer layer over a T-shirt, or beneath a casual jacket when additional layering is required.
Care Instructions:
Machine wash at or below 86°F (30°C) using a very gentle cycle.
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron at a low temperature using a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with a petroleum solvent is permitted using a mild process.
Professional wet cleaning is permitted using a mild process.
Please Note:
*Our online inventory is shared with our physical retail store. As a result, stock quantities displayed online may not always be updated in real time.
*In rare cases, an item may already be sold out by the time an order is received. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
*All garment measurements are taken by hand with the item laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Minor measurement differences may occur due to individual garment variation and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photographs due to lighting conditions and individual monitor or screen settings.
