Buzz Rickson's Men's 1910s U.S. Navy Reproduction Pea Coat, 36 oz. Wool-Blend Melton, Double-Breasted with 13-Star Anchor Buttons, Made in Japan (Toyo Enterprises BR11554, Navy)
Sale price
¥81,500 JPY
Free Shipping Worldwide
Buzz Rickson's Men's 1910s U.S. Navy Reproduction Pea Coat, 36 oz. Wool-Blend Melton, Double-Breasted with 13-Star Anchor Buttons, Made in Japan (Toyo Enterprises BR11554, Navy)
Buzz Rickson's
This men's pea coat is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions and interpretations of vintage American military clothing. Based on U.S. Navy pea coats of the 1910s, the "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" model reproduces the substantial fabric and distinctive construction details of early naval outerwear. Its 36 oz. melton shell is made from 90% wool and 10% nylon, with a dense, finely napped surface and a firm, heavyweight feel. A smooth cotton-rayon satin lining covers the body and sleeves. The double-breasted front features ten 13-star anchor buttons, while the broad collar incorporates a removable melton throat strap. Corduroy-lined vertical handwarmer pockets, two interior pockets, two-piece set-in sleeves, and an overlapping center back vent complete the construction. The relatively trim fit and length extending over the hips give the coat a clean, classic outline suited to casual outfits as well as more polished everyday combinations.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
Fit: This coat has a relatively trim, clean fit, with restrained fullness through the body and shoulders that are not cut excessively wide. The torso and sleeves follow the body naturally, limiting excess fabric while retaining moderate ease.
The set-in sleeves create defined armhole seams and a natural transition from the shoulders into the sleeves. The thick melton supports the shape of the shoulders and body, giving the coat a substantial, structured appearance when worn. The relatively trim cut and thick melton may make the coat feel snug through the chest and torso, especially when the front is buttoned.
The initial firmness and weight may take some getting used to. With continued wear, the melton gradually becomes more supple and settles into a more familiar feel against the body.
The body length extends over the waist and hips. On our 175 cm / approximately 5'9" model wearing Tagged Size 38, the hem reaches the upper thigh. This length, together with the clean vertical line from the shoulders to the hem, creates the balanced proportions associated with a classic pea coat.
The actual fit will vary depending on your body type, the thickness of the layers worn underneath, and your preferred amount of room. Given the relatively trim cut and substantial fabric thickness, one size larger than your usual choice may be worth considering, depending on your build and layering needs. If you plan to wear a thick sweater or sweatshirt underneath, or prefer more room through the shoulders and chest, please compare the measurements of your usual size with those of the next size up.
To help select your size, please measure a similar coat or jacket that fits you well, laid flat with the front fastened, and compare its chest width, body length, center-back sleeve length, sleeve length from the shoulder seam, and shoulder width with the measurements below. Please also allow for the room you need through the torso when the coat is buttoned and for any layers you intend to wear underneath.
Our model wears Tagged Size 38. He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.
The following measurements show the garment itself laid flat, not the wearer's body measurements. Width is measured straight across the buttoned coat approximately 3 cm / 1.2" below the underarms. It is a flat width measurement, not the garment's full chest circumference.
In inches
Tagged Size 36
Width: 19.3" / Length: 29.1"
Sleeve: 32.3" (23.6") / Shoulder: 17.3"
Tagged Size 38
Width: 20.5" / Length: 29.9"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.1"
Tagged Size 40
Width: 21.7" / Length: 31.1"
Sleeve: 34.3" (24.8") / Shoulder: 18.9"
Tagged Size 42
Width: 22.4" / Length: 31.9"
Sleeve: 35.4" (25.6") / Shoulder: 19.7"
Tagged Size 44
Width: 23.6" / Length: 33.1"
Sleeve: 36.2" (26.0") / Shoulder: 20.5"
Tagged Size 46
Width: 24.4" / Length: 33.5"
Sleeve: 36.6" (26.4") / Shoulder: 20.5"
In centimeters
Tagged Size 36
Width: 49cm / Length: 74cm
Sleeve: 82cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 44cm
Tagged Size 38
Width: 52cm / Length: 76cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 46cm
Tagged Size 40
Width: 55cm / Length: 79cm
Sleeve: 87cm (63cm) / Shoulder: 48cm
Tagged Size 42
Width: 57cm / Length: 81cm
Sleeve: 90cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 50cm
Tagged Size 44
Width: 60cm / Length: 84cm
Sleeve: 92cm (66cm) / Shoulder: 52cm
Tagged Size 46
Width: 62cm / Length: 85cm
Sleeve: 93cm (67cm) / Shoulder: 52cm
[How We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Measured with the coat laid flat and the front buttons fastened, straight across from side to side approximately 3 cm (about 1.2") below the underarms. This is a flat width measurement, not the garment's full chest circumference or the wearer's chest measurement.
Length (Body Length): Measured down the center back from the base of the collar, at the seam where the collar joins the body, to the bottom edge of the hem. The height of the collar is not included.
Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the sleeve opening.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The measurement in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam, where the sleeve joins the body, down to the end of the sleeve opening.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the top of one shoulder seam to the top of the other, where the sleeves join the body.
Made in Japan.
- Brand new and unused.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Slight measurement differences may occur due to individual garment variations and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
1910s U.S. Navy Pea Coat Reproduction
The BR11554 "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" pea coat is based on U.S. Navy outerwear of the 1910s. It recreates the dense, heavyweight fabric and characteristic details of an early naval coat developed for use in cold, windy conditions at sea.
The pea coat evolved as protective outerwear for sailors, with early forms believed to have existed by the 18th century. One proposed origin of its name is the Dutch word "pijjekker," combining "pij," referring to a coarse woolen cloth, with "jekker," meaning jacket. Pea coats were also used by the U.S. Navy during the 19th century and had become established winter outerwear for petty officers and enlisted sailors by the early 20th century.
Several familiar features reflect this maritime background. The double-breasted front places overlapping layers across the chest and torso. The large collar can be raised around the neck and lower face to help reduce exposure to cold wind. Vertical handwarmer pockets provide a place to shelter cold hands.
Early Naval Details and 13-Star Anchor Motifs
Dense, thick melton wool and anchor buttons surrounded by thirteen stars are defining features of 1910s U.S. Navy pea coats. The stars refer to the original thirteen states associated with American independence in 1776, surrounding the anchor as a symbol of naval service.
From the 1930s onward, changes intended to improve production efficiency and manage costs led to lighter fabrics and anchor buttons without the surrounding stars. This reproduction retains the earlier combination of heavyweight melton and 13-star anchor buttons, together with a broad collar, a throat strap, and corduroy-lined handwarmer pockets.
36 oz. Heavyweight Wool-Blend Melton Shell
The outer shell is made from 36 oz. heavyweight melton containing 90% wool and 10% nylon. This is a dense, thick fabric with the insulating qualities associated with wool. Fine surface fibers cover the face, creating a closely textured, felt-like appearance.
The melton has considerable weight and a firm hand. Its thickness and body support the broad collar, shoulders, and torso, helping the coat maintain its substantial, structured appearance. For reference, the complete garment weighs approximately 1,950 to 2,520 g, or about 4.3 to 5.6 lbs, across Tagged Sizes 36 through 46. These figures refer to the weight of the finished coat, separate from the fabric's 36 oz. designation.
The color is a deep navy. Changes in the direction and overlap of the surface nap, together with the folds and contours of the fabric, create subtle variations in tone. The melton initially feels firm and substantial, then gradually becomes more supple and settles to the wearer with continued use.
Cotton-Rayon Satin Body and Sleeve Lining
The body and sleeves are lined with satin made from 57% cotton and 43% rayon. Its smooth woven surface helps reduce friction against the clothing worn underneath, making it easier to slide the arms into the sleeves despite the substantial outer fabric.
The inside front edges are finished with facings made from the same melton as the shell. A facing is the fabric section that covers and finishes the reverse of an opening. Here, the melton extends inward from each front edge before joining the satin lining, maintaining the substantial fabric around the opening while providing a smoother surface farther inside the coat.
A vertical fold at the center back of the lining provides additional ease through the back. This allows some room within the lining as the wearer moves, complementing the shaped construction of the outer body.
Double-Breasted Front with Either-Side Overlap
The front fastens by overlapping the two front panels and securing them with buttons. The overlapping sections place additional layers of thick melton across the front of the body, helping limit the entry of wind and cold air through the opening.
Both front panels have buttons and buttonholes, allowing either side to be worn as the outer overlapping panel. This construction reflects the practical design of naval outerwear, permitting the direction of the front overlap to be changed according to the wind.
Ten-Button Arrangement and Finished Buttonholes
Ten large buttons are arranged in two vertical rows of five. Opening or fastening the upper buttons changes the depth of the chest opening and the appearance of the collar and lapels while the lower buttons continue to secure the front.
The body buttonholes are positioned horizontally. Closely worked stitching surrounds each opening, covering the cut edges of the thick melton. Both lapels also have buttonholes corresponding to the uppermost buttons, allowing the lapels to be folded back for an open neckline or brought upright and fastened to close the front up to the neck.
Military-Specification Urea Resin 13-Star Anchor Buttons
The main front buttons are made from urea resin to military specifications. Each features a central anchor motif surrounded by thirteen stars, reproducing the early naval design associated with the original thirteen states.
The buttons are sewn to the coat through four thread holes. Their large size and molded nautical motif stand out against the quiet, finely napped surface of the navy melton, making the fastening hardware a prominent part of the coat's appearance.
Broad Reefer Collar with Convertible Lapels
The coat has a broad reefer-style collar with large lapels. When the upper buttons are left open and the lapels are folded back, the notches between the collar and lapels become visible, forming a V-shaped opening at the chest.
Leaving only the uppermost button position open creates a shallower opening. Opening the top two positions allows a deeper V, while the lower buttons keep the front secured. This gives some flexibility in how much of the underlying clothing is visible and how the neckline is arranged.
Bringing the lapels upright and fastening the front to the top closes the V-shaped opening, allowing the front panels to overlap up to the neck. The collar around the neck can remain folded down while the upper front is closed.
The broad collar can also be raised, extending upward around the back and sides of the neck. In this position, it helps shelter the neck from direct wind and provides the foundation for fastening the throat strap.
Melton Undercollar with Zigzag and Parallel Stitching
The underside of the collar is also made from melton. Zigzag stitching runs across its broad surface, while a band near the collar base contains multiple parallel rows of horizontal stitching.
The fabric joins and stitching around the collar's outer edge are also visible on the underside. Together, these stitched areas secure the thick collar fabric, carrying the detailed construction into a part of the coat that is normally concealed when the collar is folded down.
Removable Melton Throat Strap
A gently curved throat strap, also called a chin strap or throat latch, is made from the same melton as the shell. It has a buttonhole at each end, allowing both ends to be detached. The fastening buttons are smaller than the main front buttons and feature an anchor motif with four thread holes.
When the strap is not in use, both ends can be fastened to two buttons beneath the wearer's left collar. Folding the collar down conceals the strap underneath, keeping it unobtrusive from the outside.
To use the strap, raise the collar, leave one end attached beneath the left side, and fasten the other end to the button beneath the right side. The strap then connects the two sides across the throat, helping keep the raised collar from spreading open and supplementing its protection against wind around the neck.
Vertical Handwarmer Pockets with Reinforced Openings
Each front panel has a handwarmer pocket with a tall, vertical opening. Also known as muff pockets, these are positioned for the hands to be slipped inside for warmth. Narrow melton welts finish both sides of each opening, while the pocket bags are housed inside the body.
The vertical pocket openings work visually with the two rows of front buttons, reinforcing the upright lines of the coat. At the upper and lower ends of each opening, triangular stitching and horizontal bar-tack-style stitching reinforce the areas that receive repeated strain as the hands enter and leave the pockets.
The pocket bags are made from beige-toned corduroy. Its textured surface provides the fabric that comes into contact with the hands, extending the handwarming function to the interior construction of the pockets.
Two Interior Pockets with Different Sizes and Positions
The coat has two interior pockets that differ in both size and placement. On the wearer's right, the pocket has a wider opening and greater depth. The pocket on the wearer's left sits lower and is narrower and shallower.
Both openings are positioned at the junction between the melton front facing and the satin lining. They are open at the top, without flaps or fastening hardware. Together with the two exterior handwarmer pockets, they provide a total of four pockets.
Two-Piece Set-In Sleeves
The sleeves are sewn into the armholes of the body using a conventional set-in construction. The sleeve attachment seams run from the shoulder area around toward the underarms, defining the outline of the shoulders and the transition into the sleeves.
Each sleeve is formed from two fabric panels joined to create the sleeve tube. This two-piece construction is distinct from a sleeve made from a single panel and forms part of the coat's structured outerwear construction.
Plain Sleeve Openings with Turned-Back Melton Edges
The sleeves end in plain openings without buttons, adjustment straps, ribbing, or opening slits. The shell melton continues to the sleeve ends, where it is turned inward to finish the edges.
This folded section covers the inside of each sleeve opening before joining the satin sleeve lining farther inside. The result is a clean sleeve end with the substantial melton maintained around the opening and the smooth lining continuing through the sleeve interior.
Paneled Back with Vertical Seams
The body is cut to extend over the waist and hips. At the back, the left and right body sections are joined along the center, with additional vertical joining seams positioned toward either side.
These joined panels shape the coat through the shoulders, back, and waist. There is no horizontal upper-back yoke or waist belt, leaving the plain melton and vertical seams to define the rear appearance.
Overlapping Center Back Vent
A center vent is positioned at the back hem. The two sides overlap, and diagonal securing stitches are placed at the upper end of the opening.
The vent allows the lower portion of the coat to open during walking or sitting, providing additional freedom around the hips while retaining a clean overlapping finish when the coat is at rest.
Interior Hanging Loop and Size Tag
A horizontal hanging loop and a small size tag are positioned inside the center back neckline, beneath the collar. These smaller interior components use restrained colors that remain consistent with the coat's understated appearance.
"NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" Identification Label
A label marked "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" is sewn at the interior pocket on the wearer's right. The lower portion includes spaces headed "Name" and "Rate," reflecting the identification fields used for the wearer's name and naval rating or rank.
This interior label carries the historical naval reference into the details inside the coat, alongside the satin lining, melton facings, and differently proportioned interior pockets.
Made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's BR11554 PEA-COAT "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" is made in Japan. Based on U.S. Navy pea coats of the 1910s, it recreates the substantial fabric and characteristic details of the period through heavyweight melton, a double-breasted front, 13-star anchor buttons, a convertible collar with a throat strap, and corduroy-lined handwarmer pockets.
Its construction brings together the practical features developed for cold and windy conditions at sea with the historical details of early naval outerwear. A relatively trim outline and a body length extending over the hips carry these elements into a classic coat for contemporary everyday wear.
Care Instructions
Do not wash at home.
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Iron on a low heat setting with a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with petroleum-based solvents, using a gentle process, is permitted.
Do not wet clean.
Please consult a professional cleaner.
Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.
Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken manually with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.
Buzz Rickson's
This men's pea coat is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, Toyo Enterprises' military label specializing in reproductions and interpretations of vintage American military clothing. Based on U.S. Navy pea coats of the 1910s, the "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" model reproduces the substantial fabric and distinctive construction details of early naval outerwear. Its 36 oz. melton shell is made from 90% wool and 10% nylon, with a dense, finely napped surface and a firm, heavyweight feel. A smooth cotton-rayon satin lining covers the body and sleeves. The double-breasted front features ten 13-star anchor buttons, while the broad collar incorporates a removable melton throat strap. Corduroy-lined vertical handwarmer pockets, two interior pockets, two-piece set-in sleeves, and an overlapping center back vent complete the construction. The relatively trim fit and length extending over the hips give the coat a clean, classic outline suited to casual outfits as well as more polished everyday combinations.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
Fit: This coat has a relatively trim, clean fit, with restrained fullness through the body and shoulders that are not cut excessively wide. The torso and sleeves follow the body naturally, limiting excess fabric while retaining moderate ease.
The set-in sleeves create defined armhole seams and a natural transition from the shoulders into the sleeves. The thick melton supports the shape of the shoulders and body, giving the coat a substantial, structured appearance when worn. The relatively trim cut and thick melton may make the coat feel snug through the chest and torso, especially when the front is buttoned.
The initial firmness and weight may take some getting used to. With continued wear, the melton gradually becomes more supple and settles into a more familiar feel against the body.
The body length extends over the waist and hips. On our 175 cm / approximately 5'9" model wearing Tagged Size 38, the hem reaches the upper thigh. This length, together with the clean vertical line from the shoulders to the hem, creates the balanced proportions associated with a classic pea coat.
The actual fit will vary depending on your body type, the thickness of the layers worn underneath, and your preferred amount of room. Given the relatively trim cut and substantial fabric thickness, one size larger than your usual choice may be worth considering, depending on your build and layering needs. If you plan to wear a thick sweater or sweatshirt underneath, or prefer more room through the shoulders and chest, please compare the measurements of your usual size with those of the next size up.
To help select your size, please measure a similar coat or jacket that fits you well, laid flat with the front fastened, and compare its chest width, body length, center-back sleeve length, sleeve length from the shoulder seam, and shoulder width with the measurements below. Please also allow for the room you need through the torso when the coat is buttoned and for any layers you intend to wear underneath.
Our model wears Tagged Size 38. He is 175 cm / approximately 5'9" tall, weighs 59 kg / approximately 130 lbs, and has a 91 cm / approximately 36" chest. For reference, he normally wears a US/EU size S/36.
The following measurements show the garment itself laid flat, not the wearer's body measurements. Width is measured straight across the buttoned coat approximately 3 cm / 1.2" below the underarms. It is a flat width measurement, not the garment's full chest circumference.
In inches
Tagged Size 36
Width: 19.3" / Length: 29.1"
Sleeve: 32.3" (23.6") / Shoulder: 17.3"
Tagged Size 38
Width: 20.5" / Length: 29.9"
Sleeve: 33.5" (24.4") / Shoulder: 18.1"
Tagged Size 40
Width: 21.7" / Length: 31.1"
Sleeve: 34.3" (24.8") / Shoulder: 18.9"
Tagged Size 42
Width: 22.4" / Length: 31.9"
Sleeve: 35.4" (25.6") / Shoulder: 19.7"
Tagged Size 44
Width: 23.6" / Length: 33.1"
Sleeve: 36.2" (26.0") / Shoulder: 20.5"
Tagged Size 46
Width: 24.4" / Length: 33.5"
Sleeve: 36.6" (26.4") / Shoulder: 20.5"
In centimeters
Tagged Size 36
Width: 49cm / Length: 74cm
Sleeve: 82cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 44cm
Tagged Size 38
Width: 52cm / Length: 76cm
Sleeve: 85cm (62cm) / Shoulder: 46cm
Tagged Size 40
Width: 55cm / Length: 79cm
Sleeve: 87cm (63cm) / Shoulder: 48cm
Tagged Size 42
Width: 57cm / Length: 81cm
Sleeve: 90cm (65cm) / Shoulder: 50cm
Tagged Size 44
Width: 60cm / Length: 84cm
Sleeve: 92cm (66cm) / Shoulder: 52cm
Tagged Size 46
Width: 62cm / Length: 85cm
Sleeve: 93cm (67cm) / Shoulder: 52cm
[How We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Measured with the coat laid flat and the front buttons fastened, straight across from side to side approximately 3 cm (about 1.2") below the underarms. This is a flat width measurement, not the garment's full chest circumference or the wearer's chest measurement.
Length (Body Length): Measured down the center back from the base of the collar, at the seam where the collar joins the body, to the bottom edge of the hem. The height of the collar is not included.
Sleeve (Center-Back Sleeve Length): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the sleeve opening.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The measurement in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam, where the sleeve joins the body, down to the end of the sleeve opening.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the top of one shoulder seam to the top of the other, where the sleeves join the body.
Made in Japan.
- Brand new and unused.
- All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Slight measurement differences may occur due to individual garment variations and the measuring method.
- Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
1910s U.S. Navy Pea Coat Reproduction
The BR11554 "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" pea coat is based on U.S. Navy outerwear of the 1910s. It recreates the dense, heavyweight fabric and characteristic details of an early naval coat developed for use in cold, windy conditions at sea.
The pea coat evolved as protective outerwear for sailors, with early forms believed to have existed by the 18th century. One proposed origin of its name is the Dutch word "pijjekker," combining "pij," referring to a coarse woolen cloth, with "jekker," meaning jacket. Pea coats were also used by the U.S. Navy during the 19th century and had become established winter outerwear for petty officers and enlisted sailors by the early 20th century.
Several familiar features reflect this maritime background. The double-breasted front places overlapping layers across the chest and torso. The large collar can be raised around the neck and lower face to help reduce exposure to cold wind. Vertical handwarmer pockets provide a place to shelter cold hands.
Early Naval Details and 13-Star Anchor Motifs
Dense, thick melton wool and anchor buttons surrounded by thirteen stars are defining features of 1910s U.S. Navy pea coats. The stars refer to the original thirteen states associated with American independence in 1776, surrounding the anchor as a symbol of naval service.
From the 1930s onward, changes intended to improve production efficiency and manage costs led to lighter fabrics and anchor buttons without the surrounding stars. This reproduction retains the earlier combination of heavyweight melton and 13-star anchor buttons, together with a broad collar, a throat strap, and corduroy-lined handwarmer pockets.
36 oz. Heavyweight Wool-Blend Melton Shell
The outer shell is made from 36 oz. heavyweight melton containing 90% wool and 10% nylon. This is a dense, thick fabric with the insulating qualities associated with wool. Fine surface fibers cover the face, creating a closely textured, felt-like appearance.
The melton has considerable weight and a firm hand. Its thickness and body support the broad collar, shoulders, and torso, helping the coat maintain its substantial, structured appearance. For reference, the complete garment weighs approximately 1,950 to 2,520 g, or about 4.3 to 5.6 lbs, across Tagged Sizes 36 through 46. These figures refer to the weight of the finished coat, separate from the fabric's 36 oz. designation.
The color is a deep navy. Changes in the direction and overlap of the surface nap, together with the folds and contours of the fabric, create subtle variations in tone. The melton initially feels firm and substantial, then gradually becomes more supple and settles to the wearer with continued use.
Cotton-Rayon Satin Body and Sleeve Lining
The body and sleeves are lined with satin made from 57% cotton and 43% rayon. Its smooth woven surface helps reduce friction against the clothing worn underneath, making it easier to slide the arms into the sleeves despite the substantial outer fabric.
The inside front edges are finished with facings made from the same melton as the shell. A facing is the fabric section that covers and finishes the reverse of an opening. Here, the melton extends inward from each front edge before joining the satin lining, maintaining the substantial fabric around the opening while providing a smoother surface farther inside the coat.
A vertical fold at the center back of the lining provides additional ease through the back. This allows some room within the lining as the wearer moves, complementing the shaped construction of the outer body.
Double-Breasted Front with Either-Side Overlap
The front fastens by overlapping the two front panels and securing them with buttons. The overlapping sections place additional layers of thick melton across the front of the body, helping limit the entry of wind and cold air through the opening.
Both front panels have buttons and buttonholes, allowing either side to be worn as the outer overlapping panel. This construction reflects the practical design of naval outerwear, permitting the direction of the front overlap to be changed according to the wind.
Ten-Button Arrangement and Finished Buttonholes
Ten large buttons are arranged in two vertical rows of five. Opening or fastening the upper buttons changes the depth of the chest opening and the appearance of the collar and lapels while the lower buttons continue to secure the front.
The body buttonholes are positioned horizontally. Closely worked stitching surrounds each opening, covering the cut edges of the thick melton. Both lapels also have buttonholes corresponding to the uppermost buttons, allowing the lapels to be folded back for an open neckline or brought upright and fastened to close the front up to the neck.
Military-Specification Urea Resin 13-Star Anchor Buttons
The main front buttons are made from urea resin to military specifications. Each features a central anchor motif surrounded by thirteen stars, reproducing the early naval design associated with the original thirteen states.
The buttons are sewn to the coat through four thread holes. Their large size and molded nautical motif stand out against the quiet, finely napped surface of the navy melton, making the fastening hardware a prominent part of the coat's appearance.
Broad Reefer Collar with Convertible Lapels
The coat has a broad reefer-style collar with large lapels. When the upper buttons are left open and the lapels are folded back, the notches between the collar and lapels become visible, forming a V-shaped opening at the chest.
Leaving only the uppermost button position open creates a shallower opening. Opening the top two positions allows a deeper V, while the lower buttons keep the front secured. This gives some flexibility in how much of the underlying clothing is visible and how the neckline is arranged.
Bringing the lapels upright and fastening the front to the top closes the V-shaped opening, allowing the front panels to overlap up to the neck. The collar around the neck can remain folded down while the upper front is closed.
The broad collar can also be raised, extending upward around the back and sides of the neck. In this position, it helps shelter the neck from direct wind and provides the foundation for fastening the throat strap.
Melton Undercollar with Zigzag and Parallel Stitching
The underside of the collar is also made from melton. Zigzag stitching runs across its broad surface, while a band near the collar base contains multiple parallel rows of horizontal stitching.
The fabric joins and stitching around the collar's outer edge are also visible on the underside. Together, these stitched areas secure the thick collar fabric, carrying the detailed construction into a part of the coat that is normally concealed when the collar is folded down.
Removable Melton Throat Strap
A gently curved throat strap, also called a chin strap or throat latch, is made from the same melton as the shell. It has a buttonhole at each end, allowing both ends to be detached. The fastening buttons are smaller than the main front buttons and feature an anchor motif with four thread holes.
When the strap is not in use, both ends can be fastened to two buttons beneath the wearer's left collar. Folding the collar down conceals the strap underneath, keeping it unobtrusive from the outside.
To use the strap, raise the collar, leave one end attached beneath the left side, and fasten the other end to the button beneath the right side. The strap then connects the two sides across the throat, helping keep the raised collar from spreading open and supplementing its protection against wind around the neck.
Vertical Handwarmer Pockets with Reinforced Openings
Each front panel has a handwarmer pocket with a tall, vertical opening. Also known as muff pockets, these are positioned for the hands to be slipped inside for warmth. Narrow melton welts finish both sides of each opening, while the pocket bags are housed inside the body.
The vertical pocket openings work visually with the two rows of front buttons, reinforcing the upright lines of the coat. At the upper and lower ends of each opening, triangular stitching and horizontal bar-tack-style stitching reinforce the areas that receive repeated strain as the hands enter and leave the pockets.
The pocket bags are made from beige-toned corduroy. Its textured surface provides the fabric that comes into contact with the hands, extending the handwarming function to the interior construction of the pockets.
Two Interior Pockets with Different Sizes and Positions
The coat has two interior pockets that differ in both size and placement. On the wearer's right, the pocket has a wider opening and greater depth. The pocket on the wearer's left sits lower and is narrower and shallower.
Both openings are positioned at the junction between the melton front facing and the satin lining. They are open at the top, without flaps or fastening hardware. Together with the two exterior handwarmer pockets, they provide a total of four pockets.
Two-Piece Set-In Sleeves
The sleeves are sewn into the armholes of the body using a conventional set-in construction. The sleeve attachment seams run from the shoulder area around toward the underarms, defining the outline of the shoulders and the transition into the sleeves.
Each sleeve is formed from two fabric panels joined to create the sleeve tube. This two-piece construction is distinct from a sleeve made from a single panel and forms part of the coat's structured outerwear construction.
Plain Sleeve Openings with Turned-Back Melton Edges
The sleeves end in plain openings without buttons, adjustment straps, ribbing, or opening slits. The shell melton continues to the sleeve ends, where it is turned inward to finish the edges.
This folded section covers the inside of each sleeve opening before joining the satin sleeve lining farther inside. The result is a clean sleeve end with the substantial melton maintained around the opening and the smooth lining continuing through the sleeve interior.
Paneled Back with Vertical Seams
The body is cut to extend over the waist and hips. At the back, the left and right body sections are joined along the center, with additional vertical joining seams positioned toward either side.
These joined panels shape the coat through the shoulders, back, and waist. There is no horizontal upper-back yoke or waist belt, leaving the plain melton and vertical seams to define the rear appearance.
Overlapping Center Back Vent
A center vent is positioned at the back hem. The two sides overlap, and diagonal securing stitches are placed at the upper end of the opening.
The vent allows the lower portion of the coat to open during walking or sitting, providing additional freedom around the hips while retaining a clean overlapping finish when the coat is at rest.
Interior Hanging Loop and Size Tag
A horizontal hanging loop and a small size tag are positioned inside the center back neckline, beneath the collar. These smaller interior components use restrained colors that remain consistent with the coat's understated appearance.
"NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" Identification Label
A label marked "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" is sewn at the interior pocket on the wearer's right. The lower portion includes spaces headed "Name" and "Rate," reflecting the identification fields used for the wearer's name and naval rating or rank.
This interior label carries the historical naval reference into the details inside the coat, alongside the satin lining, melton facings, and differently proportioned interior pockets.
Made in Japan
Buzz Rickson's BR11554 PEA-COAT "NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY" is made in Japan. Based on U.S. Navy pea coats of the 1910s, it recreates the substantial fabric and characteristic details of the period through heavyweight melton, a double-breasted front, 13-star anchor buttons, a convertible collar with a throat strap, and corduroy-lined handwarmer pockets.
Its construction brings together the practical features developed for cold and windy conditions at sea with the historical details of early naval outerwear. A relatively trim outline and a body length extending over the hips carry these elements into a classic coat for contemporary everyday wear.
Care Instructions
Do not wash at home.
Do not bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Iron on a low heat setting with a pressing cloth.
Professional dry cleaning with petroleum-based solvents, using a gentle process, is permitted.
Do not wet clean.
Please consult a professional cleaner.
Always follow the care instructions attached to the actual product.
Important Notes
- Our inventory is shared among our physical retail store and multiple online stores, so inventory changes may not always be reflected immediately on each website.
- Even after an order has been placed, an item may occasionally be sold out due to the timing of simultaneous purchases. We sincerely appreciate your understanding.
- All measurements are taken manually with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
- Because individual garments and measuring methods may vary, slight measurement differences may occur.
- The actual color of the product may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on lighting conditions and the settings of your monitor or display.
