Buzz Rickson's Men's Denim Jacket, World War II Type I Denim Blouse Reproduction, 13.6 oz. Dark Indigo Denim, Made in Japan (BR16041, 421A One-Wash)
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¥39,700 JPY
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Buzz Rickson's Men's Denim Jacket, World War II Type I Denim Blouse Reproduction, 13.6 oz. Dark Indigo Denim, Made in Japan (BR16041, 421A One-Wash)
Buzz Rickson
This men's denim jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, a Toyo Enterprise brand specializing in vintage-inspired American military garments. Crafted from 13.6 oz. dark indigo denim woven from 100% cotton, this denim blouse is based on a simplified wartime model created during World War II, when material restrictions required manufacturers to conserve essential resources. Compared with earlier models, the chest pocket flap was omitted, and the number of front buttons was reduced from five to four. These simplified specifications reflect the practical production changes introduced under wartime material controls. With Buzz Rickson's meticulous attention to period details and construction, this denim jacket combines the distinctive character of a wartime design with practical everyday wearability, making it easy to incorporate into a modern wardrobe.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
The body is cut with moderate room through the chest and shoulders, without being overly slim or loose. The body length is intentionally short, reflecting the proportions of vintage Type I denim blouses. The torso falls in a nearly straight line from the chest to the hem with minimal waist suppression, resulting in a classic silhouette that is neither fitted nor oversized.
Because fit may vary depending on body type, preferred layering, and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. For the most accurate comparison, we recommend measuring a similar denim jacket that fits you well.
Our model is wearing a tagged size 38. He is 5'9" (175 cm) tall, weighs 127 lbs (58 kg), and has a chest size of 36 inches (91 cm). He normally wears a US/EU S or 36.
The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements.
Please compare them with a similar jacket from your wardrobe to get a better sense of the fit.
In inches
Tagged Size 36
Width: 20.1" / Length: 22.0"
Sleeve: 30.7" (22.8") / Shoulder: 15.7"
Tagged Size 38
Width: 20.9" / Length: 22.4"
Sleeve: 31.5" (23.2") / Shoulder: 16.9"
Tagged Size 40
Width: 21.7" / Length: 23.2"
Sleeve: 31.9" (23.2") / Shoulder: 17.7"
Tagged Size 42
Width: 22.8" / Length: 23.6"
Sleeve: 33.1" (23.6") / Shoulder: 18.9"
Tagged Size 44
Width: 23.6" / Length: 23.6"
Sleeve: 33.5" (23.6") / Shoulder: 19.7"
In centimeters
Tagged Size 36
Width: 51cm / Length: 56cm
Sleeve: 78cm (58cm) / Shoulder: 40cm
Tagged Size 38
Width: 53cm / Length: 57cm
Sleeve: 80cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 43cm
Tagged Size 40
Width: 55cm / Length: 59cm
Sleeve: 81cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 45cm
Tagged Size 42
Width: 58cm / Length: 60cm
Sleeve: 84cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 48cm
Tagged Size 44
Width: 60cm / Length: 60cm
Sleeve: 85cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 50cm
[How We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3 cm (about 1.2 in.) below the armholes.
Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar meets the body, straight down to the bottom hem.
Sleeve (Sleeve Length from Center Back): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.
Made in Japan.
Brand new with tags, in unused condition.
*All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
Product Overview:
This men's denim jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, a military reproduction label operated by Toyo Enterprise Co., Ltd. The design is based on a simplified wartime denim blouse produced in the United States during World War II and incorporates the structural characteristics commonly associated with early Type I-style denim jackets.
The jacket is constructed from Buzz Rickson's original 13.6 oz. cotton denim and features a four-button front closure, a single flapless chest pocket, two vertical front pleats on each front body panel, rear action pleats, exposed reinforcing rivets, iron donut buttons, and an adjustable cinch-back strap. These details reproduce the practical construction and material-saving specifications found on wartime-era denim work garments.
Although historically inspired, the jacket is designed as a functional everyday garment. Its moderately roomy upper body, unlined construction, and compact vintage-style proportions make it suitable for wearing as a light outer layer or as part of a layered casual outfit.
Historical Background and Wartime Simplification:
During World War II, the United States government introduced material-conservation measures to ensure that fabric, metal, and other essential resources could be prioritized for military production. Manufacturers of civilian clothing were required to reduce unnecessary materials, simplify garment construction, and limit the use of certain metal components.
This jacket reproduces a denim blouse manufactured under those wartime restrictions. Compared with earlier models, the chest pocket flap was eliminated and the number of front closure buttons was reduced from five to four. These changes reduced the amount of fabric, thread, metal, and production labor required to manufacture each garment.
The resulting design has a restrained and highly functional appearance. Rather than adding decorative elements, the construction concentrates on durability, mobility, reinforcement, and efficient use of materials. Buzz Rickson's has recreated these characteristics using period-informed fabrics, hardware, sewing methods, and garment proportions.
Fit and Silhouette:
The jacket is cut with a moderate amount of room through the chest, shoulders, and upper back. It is not designed as a close-fitting fashion jacket, but it is also not intentionally oversized. The silhouette provides sufficient ease for natural upper-body movement and light layering without creating excessive volume.
The body follows a relatively straight line from the chest to the lower hem, with little tapering through the waist. This straight-sided construction reflects the practical proportions of early denim work blouses and distinguishes the jacket from modern trucker jackets that may have a more fitted or contoured body.
The body length is comparatively short and is intended to sit near the natural waist. This compact length is characteristic of vintage Type I-style denim jackets and helps balance the moderately generous chest measurement. The resulting silhouette is classic and structured without being either tight or excessively loose.
13.6 oz. Original Cotton Denim:
The shell is made from Buzz Rickson's original 13.6 oz. denim woven from 100% cotton. The fabric uses indigo-dyed yarns in the warp and undyed natural-color yarns in the weft.
Because denim is a warp-faced twill fabric, the indigo warp yarns dominate the exterior surface, while portions of the lighter weft yarns remain visible between them. This construction creates the characteristic contrast between the dark indigo exterior and the lighter interior of the fabric.
The yarns display subtle irregularities in thickness, producing a lightly uneven surface with natural visual variation. Fine cotton fibers and slight surface hairiness are also visible across the fabric. The undyed weft yarns occasionally emerge through the outer surface, creating a softly mottled appearance and adding depth to the indigo color.
Unlike highly uniform modern denim with a smooth and mechanically controlled surface, this fabric retains a slightly dry, coarse, and irregular hand. These characteristics reproduce the straightforward texture associated with vintage workwear denim and provide a suitable foundation for long-term fading and wear development.
One-Wash Finish:
The completed jacket has been one-washed. This process removes a substantial portion of the initial shrinkage that would normally occur in unwashed denim and allows the fabric and seams to settle into their intended finished dimensions.
The washing process also reduces some of the initial stiffness of the denim, making the jacket easier to wear from the beginning. However, because the fabric is made from natural cotton, minor additional shrinkage or dimensional change may still occur depending on water temperature, washing method, and drying conditions.
The one-wash treatment does not create artificial distressing, heavy fading, or pre-worn abrasion. The jacket retains a dark indigo appearance and is intended to develop its own wear patterns through regular use.
Natural Fading and Aging Characteristics:
With continued wear and laundering, the indigo surface will gradually develop color variation, abrasion marks, and localized fading. Areas exposed to repeated movement or friction, including the seams, front pleats, chest pocket, elbows, cuffs, buttonholes, waistband, and lower edges, will typically show the most noticeable changes.
The fading pattern will vary according to the wearer's body shape, movement, frequency of use, laundering method, and daily environment. Creases formed through repeated movement may develop contrasting lines, while raised seams and folded areas may gradually become lighter as the surface indigo wears away.
The denim, sewing threads, iron hardware, rivets, and leather patch will each age differently. Over time, these individual changes combine to give each jacket a distinct appearance that reflects the way it has been worn and maintained.
Unlined Single-Layer Construction:
The jacket is constructed without a separate lining. The body and sleeves consist primarily of a single layer of 13.6 oz. denim, allowing the interior seams and structural details to remain visible.
The unlined construction keeps the jacket lighter and less bulky than an insulated or blanket-lined outer garment. At the same time, the 13.6 oz. denim provides sufficient structure, abrasion resistance, and durability for regular use.
The jacket can be worn as a light outer layer during spring and fall. Depending on the temperature, it may be layered over a T-shirt, work shirt, sweatshirt, or lightweight knit garment, allowing it to be incorporated into a wardrobe across a relatively wide range of seasons.
Four-Button Front Closure:
The front is secured by four exposed metal buttons positioned along the front placket. The reduced four-button configuration reflects the material-saving specifications used on certain wartime garments, where the number of metal components was minimized.
The buttonholes are sewn horizontally rather than vertically. This orientation corresponds with the construction of the reproduced wartime design and helps distribute horizontal tension across the buttonhole when the jacket is fastened.
Reinforced Front Placket:
The front placket is formed by folding the denim into a double-layer structure. This reinforced construction increases the strength of the button and buttonhole area, which is repeatedly subjected to pulling, bending, and abrasion during fastening and unfastening.
The additional fabric layer also helps the front edge retain its shape and reduces the likelihood of stretching, twisting, or distortion after extended wear and repeated laundering.
Although the placket appears visually simple from the exterior, its folded internal construction provides the necessary stability for long-term use.
Selvedge Detail Inside the Front Placket:
The inner edge of the front placket incorporates the woven selvedge edge of the denim. Selvedge is the finished edge produced along the sides of fabric woven on a shuttle loom or similarly constructed weaving system.
Because the edge is finished during the weaving process, it resists unraveling without requiring the same type of overlock or binding treatment used on a raw cut edge. On this jacket, the selvedge is located on the interior facing and is generally concealed when the front is buttoned.
Chain-Stitch Run-Off:
At the lower front opening, chain-stitch thread tails are intentionally left hanging from both sides of the jacket at the points where the front plackets meet the lower waistband.
These hanging thread chains are produced when the chain-stitch sewing continues beyond the edge of the fabric at the end of the sewing operation. Rather than trimming the thread tails flush with the garment, they are left exposed to reproduce a distinctive finishing detail found on certain vintage denim garments.
This construction detail is commonly referred to as chain-stitch run-off. The exposed thread chains are intentional and should not be considered loose stitching, incomplete finishing, or a manufacturing defect.
Iron Donut Buttons:
The front closure and sleeve cuffs are fitted with iron donut buttons featuring an engraved laurel-wreath pattern. The buttons have a recessed open center, giving them the distinctive donut-shaped appearance associated with early workwear and wartime garments.
The stamped vine decoration adds a period-inspired surface detail while retaining the utilitarian character of the hardware. Because the buttons are made from iron rather than stainless steel or a non-ferrous alloy, their appearance may gradually change through use.
Exposure to perspiration, moisture, friction, and environmental conditions may cause the button surfaces to darken, lose some of their original finish, or develop minor oxidation. These changes are natural characteristics of iron hardware and contribute to the aging of the garment.
Collar Construction:
The jacket features a shirt-style collar constructed without a separate collar stand. Instead of attaching the collar to an intermediate stand component, the collar body is sewn directly to the neckline.
This construction keeps the base of the collar relatively low and produces a flatter, less elevated collar roll than a conventional shirt collar with a separate stand. The neckline therefore has the simple, low-profile appearance associated with early Type I-style denim blouses.
The collar itself is comparatively compact. Its restrained size complements the simplified four-button front and prevents the upper portion of the jacket from appearing excessively wide or formal.
Single Flapless Chest Pocket:
A single patch pocket is positioned on the wearer's left chest. The pocket is made from a separately cut piece of denim that is placed directly over the front body panel and secured around its outer edges with stitching.
In accordance with the wartime material-saving specification, the pocket does not have a separate flap. Eliminating the flap reduced the amount of fabric, thread, cutting labor, and sewing time required during production.
The resulting pocket has a direct, open-top construction that maintains the restrained appearance of the jacket while providing practical storage for small items.
Riveted Pocket Reinforcement:
Exposed metal rivets are installed at both upper corners of the chest pocket opening. These locations are subjected to concentrated stress whenever objects are inserted into or removed from the pocket.
The rivets reinforce the points where the pocket opening meets the body fabric and help prevent the stitching from pulling away under repeated use. They also distribute tension over a broader area than stitching alone.
The exposed rivet heads contribute to the industrial appearance of the jacket and reproduce a functional reinforcement method commonly found on early denim work garments.
Four Front Expansion Pleats:
The front body incorporates four vertical expansion pleats, with two pleats positioned on each side of the front opening. Each pleat is formed by folding a controlled amount of body fabric inward.
The upper, center, and lower sections of each pleat are secured with horizontal rectangular box stitching. These three reinforcement points hold the folded fabric in position while allowing the sections between them to open slightly when additional room is required for upper-body movement.
Because woven denim has very little mechanical stretch, the folded fabric functions as a controlled expansion system. When the wearer reaches forward, raises the arms, or moves the shoulders, the pleats can open slightly and release additional fabric across the chest.
When the arms return to a neutral position, the pleats settle back into their folded configuration. This allows the front body to remain relatively flat without the permanent fullness that would result from simply cutting the chest substantially wider.
In addition to improving mobility, the four pleats create one of the most recognizable visual characteristics of early Type I-style denim jackets. Their vertical arrangement emphasizes the length of the front panels and gives the otherwise simplified body a distinctive structural appearance.
The sewing direction of the box stitching differs between the left and right front panels. On the left front panel, the point where the stitching begins and ends is positioned toward the upper side of the rectangular stitch. On the right front panel, the corresponding overlap is positioned toward the lower side.
This difference reflects production-oriented sewing procedures and recreates a small construction detail associated with vintage garment manufacturing.
Straight Back Yoke:
The upper back is divided by a straight horizontal yoke that extends across the shoulder area. The yoke connects the left and right shoulder sections and provides structural support across an area that is repeatedly placed under tension by arm and upper-body movement.
The straight yoke seam also creates a defined transition between the shoulder section and the main back panel. Its simple horizontal shape is consistent with the functional construction of early denim work jackets.
One-Piece Back Panel:
Below the back yoke, the main back body is cut from a single piece of denim and extends downward to the upper edge of the lower waistband.
There is no vertical center-back seam dividing the panel. This uninterrupted construction creates a clean rear appearance and allows the denim to develop a continuous fading pattern across the center of the back.
Using a one-piece back panel also eliminates an additional seam that could otherwise create stiffness or concentrated wear along the center of the garment.
Rear Action Pleats:
Vertical action pleats are positioned beneath the back yoke on both sides of the upper back. These pleats introduce controlled additional fabric across the shoulder-blade area.
When the wearer reaches forward, raises the arms, or rotates the shoulders, the pleats can open to provide additional movement across the upper back. This reduces restrictive tension and helps prevent the shoulder seams and back yoke from absorbing the full force of the movement.
When the wearer returns to a relaxed position, the pleats fold inward and lie relatively flat. This construction improves mobility without requiring the entire back panel to be cut excessively wide or loose.
Adjustable Cinch-Back Strap:
An adjustable cinch-back strap is installed near the lower rear section of the jacket. The strap passes through a metal buckle and allows the wearer to reduce the circumference of the back hem.
Tightening the strap draws in a controlled amount of fabric at the rear waistband, providing limited adjustment to the fit around the lower body. Loosening the strap allows the waistband to return closer to its original circumference.
The cinch-back is both a functional fit-adjustment feature and a recognizable design element associated with early denim blouses produced before side-tab adjusters became more common.
Riveted Cinch-Back Attachment:
Both ends of the cinch-back assembly are secured to the body with exposed metal rivets. These points are placed under tension whenever the strap is adjusted or worn in a tightened position.
The rivets reinforce the connection between the strap and the denim body, reducing the strain placed on the surrounding stitching. Their exposed construction also contributes to the industrial and utilitarian appearance of the rear body.
Cinch-Back Hardware Precaution:
The metal cinch-back buckle and exposed rivets may come into direct contact with surrounding surfaces when the wearer sits down, leans backward, or enters a vehicle.
Contact with automobile seats, leather upholstery, fabric-covered furniture, sofas, chairs, painted furniture, finished wood, or other delicate surfaces may cause scratching, abrasion, snagging, or other surface damage.
Particular care should be taken when sitting against easily damaged materials. The wearer should also be aware that the hardware itself may develop surface wear through repeated contact.
Set-In Sleeve Construction:
The sleeves are attached to the body using a conventional set-in sleeve construction. Each sleeve is sewn into a defined armhole, creating a structured shoulder line and a familiar work-jacket shape.
Compared with a dropped-shoulder or raglan-sleeve design, the set-in construction places the sleeve seam closer to the natural shoulder point. This provides a cleaner shoulder profile while maintaining sufficient mobility through the moderately roomy upper body and action-pleat construction.
Single-Button Cuffs:
Each sleeve cuff is secured with one iron donut button. The single-button construction keeps the cuff simple and corresponds with the material-saving character of the wartime design.
When buttoned, the cuff closes around the wrist and helps control the width of the sleeve opening. When unbuttoned, the cuff can open sufficiently to allow the hand to pass through during dressing or removal.
Riveted Cuff Slits:
A cuff slit is incorporated into the lower section of each sleeve. The slit allows the sleeve opening to expand when the cuff button is released.
The terminal point of the slit is subjected to concentrated stress whenever the cuff is opened, pulled over the hand, or placed under tension. A reinforcing metal rivet is therefore installed at the end of the opening.
The rivet helps reduce the possibility of the slit extending farther into the sleeve and protects the surrounding fabric and stitching from tearing during repeated use.
Vegetable-Tanned Deerskin Leather Patch:
A deerskin leather patch is sewn to the interior neckline. The leather has been processed using a vegetable-tanning method that relies primarily on tannins derived from plant materials.
Vegetable-tanned leather generally retains a natural surface and develops visible changes through exposure to handling, body heat, moisture, and natural oils. As the jacket is worn, the patch may gradually darken, soften, and develop greater surface luster.
The deerskin patch is attached directly to the denim around all four edges. This construction secures the patch firmly while allowing both the leather and denim to age together.
Visible Exterior Patch Stitching:
Because the interior leather patch is sewn directly through the denim back panel, its rectangular attachment stitching is visible on the exterior upper back of the jacket.
The square or rectangular outline seen beneath the collar is therefore a functional result of the patch installation rather than a separate decorative design. This exposed construction detail reflects the straightforward manufacturing methods used on vintage work garments.
Construction and Functional Summary:
This jacket combines the simplified specifications associated with wartime material restrictions with the practical construction of an early denim work blouse.
Its primary details include 13.6 oz. indigo denim, a four-button front closure, iron donut buttons, horizontal buttonholes, a single flapless chest pocket, exposed reinforcing rivets, four front expansion pleats, a straight back yoke, rear action pleats, a one-piece back panel, an adjustable cinch-back strap, riveted cuff slits, and a vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch.
Although the exterior design is restrained and minimally decorated, the jacket incorporates functional features intended to improve durability, upper-body mobility, stress resistance, and lower-hem adjustment.
Through continued wear, the denim, seams, pleats, metal hardware, rivets, sewing threads, and leather patch will gradually develop individual aging characteristics, allowing each jacket to acquire a unique appearance.
Country of Manufacture and Condition:
Made in Japan by Toyo Enterprise Co., Ltd. under the Buzz Rickson's label.
Brand new and in unused condition.
Model Name:
Buzz Rickson's by Toyo Enterprises Lot No. BR16041 / WORLD WAR II DENIM BLOUSE
Indigo Dye Precautions:
This product is made with indigo-dyed denim. During the early stages of wear, excess indigo may transfer through friction, perspiration, rain, or other exposure to moisture.
Avoid prolonged contact with light-colored clothing, shirts, bags, shoes, belts, automobile seats, sofas, upholstery, bedding, and other surfaces that may absorb the dye. Particular care should be taken when the jacket is new or damp.
Indigo transfer is a natural characteristic of traditionally dyed denim and is not considered a manufacturing defect.
Washing and Care Instructions:
Wash the jacket separately from other garments to help prevent indigo transfer. Do not use chlorine bleach or non-chlorine oxygen bleach.
Avoid hot water, tumble drying, prolonged soaking, and leaving the garment wet for an extended period. High temperatures and mechanical drying may cause additional shrinkage, distortion, or accelerated color loss.
After washing, remove the jacket promptly, gently reshape the body, collar, sleeves, cuffs, and waistband, and allow it to dry completely. Do not place the wet garment directly against other clothing, fabric products, furniture, automobile upholstery, or other absorbent surfaces.
The use of mild detergent and cool or cold water is recommended for preserving the denim's color and minimizing unnecessary dimensional change.
Care Instructions:
Machine wash in water at or below 86°F (30°C) using a gentle cycle.
Do not use chlorine bleach or non-chlorine oxygen bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron at low temperature with a pressing cloth placed between the iron and the garment.
Professional dry cleaning using petroleum-based solvents only; gentle process.
Important Information:
*Inventory is shared with our physical retail store. As a result, online stock availability may not always be updated in real time.
*Although an item may appear to be available when an order is placed, it may occasionally have already sold out due to the timing of an in-store or online purchase. We appreciate your understanding.
*All garment measurements are taken by hand with the item laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Because of normal variations between individual garments and differences in the measuring process, the actual measurements may vary slightly from those listed.
*Actual product colors may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on the lighting conditions during photography, your monitor or device, screen brightness, color calibration, and other display settings.
Buzz Rickson
This men's denim jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, a Toyo Enterprise brand specializing in vintage-inspired American military garments. Crafted from 13.6 oz. dark indigo denim woven from 100% cotton, this denim blouse is based on a simplified wartime model created during World War II, when material restrictions required manufacturers to conserve essential resources. Compared with earlier models, the chest pocket flap was omitted, and the number of front buttons was reduced from five to four. These simplified specifications reflect the practical production changes introduced under wartime material controls. With Buzz Rickson's meticulous attention to period details and construction, this denim jacket combines the distinctive character of a wartime design with practical everyday wearability, making it easy to incorporate into a modern wardrobe.
Size and Fit Guide:
Gender: Men.
The body is cut with moderate room through the chest and shoulders, without being overly slim or loose. The body length is intentionally short, reflecting the proportions of vintage Type I denim blouses. The torso falls in a nearly straight line from the chest to the hem with minimal waist suppression, resulting in a classic silhouette that is neither fitted nor oversized.
Because fit may vary depending on body type, preferred layering, and personal preference, please use the actual garment measurements below as your primary reference. For the most accurate comparison, we recommend measuring a similar denim jacket that fits you well.
Our model is wearing a tagged size 38. He is 5'9" (175 cm) tall, weighs 127 lbs (58 kg), and has a chest size of 36 inches (91 cm). He normally wears a US/EU S or 36.
The following measurements show the garment itself, not your body measurements.
Please compare them with a similar jacket from your wardrobe to get a better sense of the fit.
In inches
Tagged Size 36
Width: 20.1" / Length: 22.0"
Sleeve: 30.7" (22.8") / Shoulder: 15.7"
Tagged Size 38
Width: 20.9" / Length: 22.4"
Sleeve: 31.5" (23.2") / Shoulder: 16.9"
Tagged Size 40
Width: 21.7" / Length: 23.2"
Sleeve: 31.9" (23.2") / Shoulder: 17.7"
Tagged Size 42
Width: 22.8" / Length: 23.6"
Sleeve: 33.1" (23.6") / Shoulder: 18.9"
Tagged Size 44
Width: 23.6" / Length: 23.6"
Sleeve: 33.5" (23.6") / Shoulder: 19.7"
In centimeters
Tagged Size 36
Width: 51cm / Length: 56cm
Sleeve: 78cm (58cm) / Shoulder: 40cm
Tagged Size 38
Width: 53cm / Length: 57cm
Sleeve: 80cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 43cm
Tagged Size 40
Width: 55cm / Length: 59cm
Sleeve: 81cm (59cm) / Shoulder: 45cm
Tagged Size 42
Width: 58cm / Length: 60cm
Sleeve: 84cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 48cm
Tagged Size 44
Width: 60cm / Length: 60cm
Sleeve: 85cm (60cm) / Shoulder: 50cm
[How We Measure the Actual Garment]
Width (Chest Width / Half Chest): Lay the garment flat and measure straight across from side to side, approximately 3 cm (about 1.2 in.) below the armholes.
Length (Body Length): Measured from the base of the back collar, where the collar meets the body, straight down to the bottom hem.
Sleeve (Sleeve Length from Center Back): The first sleeve measurement is taken from the center back at the base of the collar seam, across the shoulder, and down to the end of the cuff.
Sleeve in Parentheses (Sleeve Length from Shoulder Seam): The sleeve measurement shown in parentheses is taken from the top of the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff.
Shoulder (Shoulder Width): Measured straight across the back from the outer edge of one shoulder seam to the outer edge of the other.
Made in Japan.
Brand new with tags, in unused condition.
*All measurements are taken by hand with the garment laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Please note that slight variations in measurements may occur due to individual garment differences and the measuring method.
*Actual color may vary slightly from the photos due to lighting conditions and individual screen settings.
Product Overview:
This men's denim jacket is made in Japan by Buzz Rickson's, a military reproduction label operated by Toyo Enterprise Co., Ltd. The design is based on a simplified wartime denim blouse produced in the United States during World War II and incorporates the structural characteristics commonly associated with early Type I-style denim jackets.
The jacket is constructed from Buzz Rickson's original 13.6 oz. cotton denim and features a four-button front closure, a single flapless chest pocket, two vertical front pleats on each front body panel, rear action pleats, exposed reinforcing rivets, iron donut buttons, and an adjustable cinch-back strap. These details reproduce the practical construction and material-saving specifications found on wartime-era denim work garments.
Although historically inspired, the jacket is designed as a functional everyday garment. Its moderately roomy upper body, unlined construction, and compact vintage-style proportions make it suitable for wearing as a light outer layer or as part of a layered casual outfit.
Historical Background and Wartime Simplification:
During World War II, the United States government introduced material-conservation measures to ensure that fabric, metal, and other essential resources could be prioritized for military production. Manufacturers of civilian clothing were required to reduce unnecessary materials, simplify garment construction, and limit the use of certain metal components.
This jacket reproduces a denim blouse manufactured under those wartime restrictions. Compared with earlier models, the chest pocket flap was eliminated and the number of front closure buttons was reduced from five to four. These changes reduced the amount of fabric, thread, metal, and production labor required to manufacture each garment.
The resulting design has a restrained and highly functional appearance. Rather than adding decorative elements, the construction concentrates on durability, mobility, reinforcement, and efficient use of materials. Buzz Rickson's has recreated these characteristics using period-informed fabrics, hardware, sewing methods, and garment proportions.
Fit and Silhouette:
The jacket is cut with a moderate amount of room through the chest, shoulders, and upper back. It is not designed as a close-fitting fashion jacket, but it is also not intentionally oversized. The silhouette provides sufficient ease for natural upper-body movement and light layering without creating excessive volume.
The body follows a relatively straight line from the chest to the lower hem, with little tapering through the waist. This straight-sided construction reflects the practical proportions of early denim work blouses and distinguishes the jacket from modern trucker jackets that may have a more fitted or contoured body.
The body length is comparatively short and is intended to sit near the natural waist. This compact length is characteristic of vintage Type I-style denim jackets and helps balance the moderately generous chest measurement. The resulting silhouette is classic and structured without being either tight or excessively loose.
13.6 oz. Original Cotton Denim:
The shell is made from Buzz Rickson's original 13.6 oz. denim woven from 100% cotton. The fabric uses indigo-dyed yarns in the warp and undyed natural-color yarns in the weft.
Because denim is a warp-faced twill fabric, the indigo warp yarns dominate the exterior surface, while portions of the lighter weft yarns remain visible between them. This construction creates the characteristic contrast between the dark indigo exterior and the lighter interior of the fabric.
The yarns display subtle irregularities in thickness, producing a lightly uneven surface with natural visual variation. Fine cotton fibers and slight surface hairiness are also visible across the fabric. The undyed weft yarns occasionally emerge through the outer surface, creating a softly mottled appearance and adding depth to the indigo color.
Unlike highly uniform modern denim with a smooth and mechanically controlled surface, this fabric retains a slightly dry, coarse, and irregular hand. These characteristics reproduce the straightforward texture associated with vintage workwear denim and provide a suitable foundation for long-term fading and wear development.
One-Wash Finish:
The completed jacket has been one-washed. This process removes a substantial portion of the initial shrinkage that would normally occur in unwashed denim and allows the fabric and seams to settle into their intended finished dimensions.
The washing process also reduces some of the initial stiffness of the denim, making the jacket easier to wear from the beginning. However, because the fabric is made from natural cotton, minor additional shrinkage or dimensional change may still occur depending on water temperature, washing method, and drying conditions.
The one-wash treatment does not create artificial distressing, heavy fading, or pre-worn abrasion. The jacket retains a dark indigo appearance and is intended to develop its own wear patterns through regular use.
Natural Fading and Aging Characteristics:
With continued wear and laundering, the indigo surface will gradually develop color variation, abrasion marks, and localized fading. Areas exposed to repeated movement or friction, including the seams, front pleats, chest pocket, elbows, cuffs, buttonholes, waistband, and lower edges, will typically show the most noticeable changes.
The fading pattern will vary according to the wearer's body shape, movement, frequency of use, laundering method, and daily environment. Creases formed through repeated movement may develop contrasting lines, while raised seams and folded areas may gradually become lighter as the surface indigo wears away.
The denim, sewing threads, iron hardware, rivets, and leather patch will each age differently. Over time, these individual changes combine to give each jacket a distinct appearance that reflects the way it has been worn and maintained.
Unlined Single-Layer Construction:
The jacket is constructed without a separate lining. The body and sleeves consist primarily of a single layer of 13.6 oz. denim, allowing the interior seams and structural details to remain visible.
The unlined construction keeps the jacket lighter and less bulky than an insulated or blanket-lined outer garment. At the same time, the 13.6 oz. denim provides sufficient structure, abrasion resistance, and durability for regular use.
The jacket can be worn as a light outer layer during spring and fall. Depending on the temperature, it may be layered over a T-shirt, work shirt, sweatshirt, or lightweight knit garment, allowing it to be incorporated into a wardrobe across a relatively wide range of seasons.
Four-Button Front Closure:
The front is secured by four exposed metal buttons positioned along the front placket. The reduced four-button configuration reflects the material-saving specifications used on certain wartime garments, where the number of metal components was minimized.
The buttonholes are sewn horizontally rather than vertically. This orientation corresponds with the construction of the reproduced wartime design and helps distribute horizontal tension across the buttonhole when the jacket is fastened.
Reinforced Front Placket:
The front placket is formed by folding the denim into a double-layer structure. This reinforced construction increases the strength of the button and buttonhole area, which is repeatedly subjected to pulling, bending, and abrasion during fastening and unfastening.
The additional fabric layer also helps the front edge retain its shape and reduces the likelihood of stretching, twisting, or distortion after extended wear and repeated laundering.
Although the placket appears visually simple from the exterior, its folded internal construction provides the necessary stability for long-term use.
Selvedge Detail Inside the Front Placket:
The inner edge of the front placket incorporates the woven selvedge edge of the denim. Selvedge is the finished edge produced along the sides of fabric woven on a shuttle loom or similarly constructed weaving system.
Because the edge is finished during the weaving process, it resists unraveling without requiring the same type of overlock or binding treatment used on a raw cut edge. On this jacket, the selvedge is located on the interior facing and is generally concealed when the front is buttoned.
Chain-Stitch Run-Off:
At the lower front opening, chain-stitch thread tails are intentionally left hanging from both sides of the jacket at the points where the front plackets meet the lower waistband.
These hanging thread chains are produced when the chain-stitch sewing continues beyond the edge of the fabric at the end of the sewing operation. Rather than trimming the thread tails flush with the garment, they are left exposed to reproduce a distinctive finishing detail found on certain vintage denim garments.
This construction detail is commonly referred to as chain-stitch run-off. The exposed thread chains are intentional and should not be considered loose stitching, incomplete finishing, or a manufacturing defect.
Iron Donut Buttons:
The front closure and sleeve cuffs are fitted with iron donut buttons featuring an engraved laurel-wreath pattern. The buttons have a recessed open center, giving them the distinctive donut-shaped appearance associated with early workwear and wartime garments.
The stamped vine decoration adds a period-inspired surface detail while retaining the utilitarian character of the hardware. Because the buttons are made from iron rather than stainless steel or a non-ferrous alloy, their appearance may gradually change through use.
Exposure to perspiration, moisture, friction, and environmental conditions may cause the button surfaces to darken, lose some of their original finish, or develop minor oxidation. These changes are natural characteristics of iron hardware and contribute to the aging of the garment.
Collar Construction:
The jacket features a shirt-style collar constructed without a separate collar stand. Instead of attaching the collar to an intermediate stand component, the collar body is sewn directly to the neckline.
This construction keeps the base of the collar relatively low and produces a flatter, less elevated collar roll than a conventional shirt collar with a separate stand. The neckline therefore has the simple, low-profile appearance associated with early Type I-style denim blouses.
The collar itself is comparatively compact. Its restrained size complements the simplified four-button front and prevents the upper portion of the jacket from appearing excessively wide or formal.
Single Flapless Chest Pocket:
A single patch pocket is positioned on the wearer's left chest. The pocket is made from a separately cut piece of denim that is placed directly over the front body panel and secured around its outer edges with stitching.
In accordance with the wartime material-saving specification, the pocket does not have a separate flap. Eliminating the flap reduced the amount of fabric, thread, cutting labor, and sewing time required during production.
The resulting pocket has a direct, open-top construction that maintains the restrained appearance of the jacket while providing practical storage for small items.
Riveted Pocket Reinforcement:
Exposed metal rivets are installed at both upper corners of the chest pocket opening. These locations are subjected to concentrated stress whenever objects are inserted into or removed from the pocket.
The rivets reinforce the points where the pocket opening meets the body fabric and help prevent the stitching from pulling away under repeated use. They also distribute tension over a broader area than stitching alone.
The exposed rivet heads contribute to the industrial appearance of the jacket and reproduce a functional reinforcement method commonly found on early denim work garments.
Four Front Expansion Pleats:
The front body incorporates four vertical expansion pleats, with two pleats positioned on each side of the front opening. Each pleat is formed by folding a controlled amount of body fabric inward.
The upper, center, and lower sections of each pleat are secured with horizontal rectangular box stitching. These three reinforcement points hold the folded fabric in position while allowing the sections between them to open slightly when additional room is required for upper-body movement.
Because woven denim has very little mechanical stretch, the folded fabric functions as a controlled expansion system. When the wearer reaches forward, raises the arms, or moves the shoulders, the pleats can open slightly and release additional fabric across the chest.
When the arms return to a neutral position, the pleats settle back into their folded configuration. This allows the front body to remain relatively flat without the permanent fullness that would result from simply cutting the chest substantially wider.
In addition to improving mobility, the four pleats create one of the most recognizable visual characteristics of early Type I-style denim jackets. Their vertical arrangement emphasizes the length of the front panels and gives the otherwise simplified body a distinctive structural appearance.
The sewing direction of the box stitching differs between the left and right front panels. On the left front panel, the point where the stitching begins and ends is positioned toward the upper side of the rectangular stitch. On the right front panel, the corresponding overlap is positioned toward the lower side.
This difference reflects production-oriented sewing procedures and recreates a small construction detail associated with vintage garment manufacturing.
Straight Back Yoke:
The upper back is divided by a straight horizontal yoke that extends across the shoulder area. The yoke connects the left and right shoulder sections and provides structural support across an area that is repeatedly placed under tension by arm and upper-body movement.
The straight yoke seam also creates a defined transition between the shoulder section and the main back panel. Its simple horizontal shape is consistent with the functional construction of early denim work jackets.
One-Piece Back Panel:
Below the back yoke, the main back body is cut from a single piece of denim and extends downward to the upper edge of the lower waistband.
There is no vertical center-back seam dividing the panel. This uninterrupted construction creates a clean rear appearance and allows the denim to develop a continuous fading pattern across the center of the back.
Using a one-piece back panel also eliminates an additional seam that could otherwise create stiffness or concentrated wear along the center of the garment.
Rear Action Pleats:
Vertical action pleats are positioned beneath the back yoke on both sides of the upper back. These pleats introduce controlled additional fabric across the shoulder-blade area.
When the wearer reaches forward, raises the arms, or rotates the shoulders, the pleats can open to provide additional movement across the upper back. This reduces restrictive tension and helps prevent the shoulder seams and back yoke from absorbing the full force of the movement.
When the wearer returns to a relaxed position, the pleats fold inward and lie relatively flat. This construction improves mobility without requiring the entire back panel to be cut excessively wide or loose.
Adjustable Cinch-Back Strap:
An adjustable cinch-back strap is installed near the lower rear section of the jacket. The strap passes through a metal buckle and allows the wearer to reduce the circumference of the back hem.
Tightening the strap draws in a controlled amount of fabric at the rear waistband, providing limited adjustment to the fit around the lower body. Loosening the strap allows the waistband to return closer to its original circumference.
The cinch-back is both a functional fit-adjustment feature and a recognizable design element associated with early denim blouses produced before side-tab adjusters became more common.
Riveted Cinch-Back Attachment:
Both ends of the cinch-back assembly are secured to the body with exposed metal rivets. These points are placed under tension whenever the strap is adjusted or worn in a tightened position.
The rivets reinforce the connection between the strap and the denim body, reducing the strain placed on the surrounding stitching. Their exposed construction also contributes to the industrial and utilitarian appearance of the rear body.
Cinch-Back Hardware Precaution:
The metal cinch-back buckle and exposed rivets may come into direct contact with surrounding surfaces when the wearer sits down, leans backward, or enters a vehicle.
Contact with automobile seats, leather upholstery, fabric-covered furniture, sofas, chairs, painted furniture, finished wood, or other delicate surfaces may cause scratching, abrasion, snagging, or other surface damage.
Particular care should be taken when sitting against easily damaged materials. The wearer should also be aware that the hardware itself may develop surface wear through repeated contact.
Set-In Sleeve Construction:
The sleeves are attached to the body using a conventional set-in sleeve construction. Each sleeve is sewn into a defined armhole, creating a structured shoulder line and a familiar work-jacket shape.
Compared with a dropped-shoulder or raglan-sleeve design, the set-in construction places the sleeve seam closer to the natural shoulder point. This provides a cleaner shoulder profile while maintaining sufficient mobility through the moderately roomy upper body and action-pleat construction.
Single-Button Cuffs:
Each sleeve cuff is secured with one iron donut button. The single-button construction keeps the cuff simple and corresponds with the material-saving character of the wartime design.
When buttoned, the cuff closes around the wrist and helps control the width of the sleeve opening. When unbuttoned, the cuff can open sufficiently to allow the hand to pass through during dressing or removal.
Riveted Cuff Slits:
A cuff slit is incorporated into the lower section of each sleeve. The slit allows the sleeve opening to expand when the cuff button is released.
The terminal point of the slit is subjected to concentrated stress whenever the cuff is opened, pulled over the hand, or placed under tension. A reinforcing metal rivet is therefore installed at the end of the opening.
The rivet helps reduce the possibility of the slit extending farther into the sleeve and protects the surrounding fabric and stitching from tearing during repeated use.
Vegetable-Tanned Deerskin Leather Patch:
A deerskin leather patch is sewn to the interior neckline. The leather has been processed using a vegetable-tanning method that relies primarily on tannins derived from plant materials.
Vegetable-tanned leather generally retains a natural surface and develops visible changes through exposure to handling, body heat, moisture, and natural oils. As the jacket is worn, the patch may gradually darken, soften, and develop greater surface luster.
The deerskin patch is attached directly to the denim around all four edges. This construction secures the patch firmly while allowing both the leather and denim to age together.
Visible Exterior Patch Stitching:
Because the interior leather patch is sewn directly through the denim back panel, its rectangular attachment stitching is visible on the exterior upper back of the jacket.
The square or rectangular outline seen beneath the collar is therefore a functional result of the patch installation rather than a separate decorative design. This exposed construction detail reflects the straightforward manufacturing methods used on vintage work garments.
Construction and Functional Summary:
This jacket combines the simplified specifications associated with wartime material restrictions with the practical construction of an early denim work blouse.
Its primary details include 13.6 oz. indigo denim, a four-button front closure, iron donut buttons, horizontal buttonholes, a single flapless chest pocket, exposed reinforcing rivets, four front expansion pleats, a straight back yoke, rear action pleats, a one-piece back panel, an adjustable cinch-back strap, riveted cuff slits, and a vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch.
Although the exterior design is restrained and minimally decorated, the jacket incorporates functional features intended to improve durability, upper-body mobility, stress resistance, and lower-hem adjustment.
Through continued wear, the denim, seams, pleats, metal hardware, rivets, sewing threads, and leather patch will gradually develop individual aging characteristics, allowing each jacket to acquire a unique appearance.
Country of Manufacture and Condition:
Made in Japan by Toyo Enterprise Co., Ltd. under the Buzz Rickson's label.
Brand new and in unused condition.
Model Name:
Buzz Rickson's by Toyo Enterprises Lot No. BR16041 / WORLD WAR II DENIM BLOUSE
Indigo Dye Precautions:
This product is made with indigo-dyed denim. During the early stages of wear, excess indigo may transfer through friction, perspiration, rain, or other exposure to moisture.
Avoid prolonged contact with light-colored clothing, shirts, bags, shoes, belts, automobile seats, sofas, upholstery, bedding, and other surfaces that may absorb the dye. Particular care should be taken when the jacket is new or damp.
Indigo transfer is a natural characteristic of traditionally dyed denim and is not considered a manufacturing defect.
Washing and Care Instructions:
Wash the jacket separately from other garments to help prevent indigo transfer. Do not use chlorine bleach or non-chlorine oxygen bleach.
Avoid hot water, tumble drying, prolonged soaking, and leaving the garment wet for an extended period. High temperatures and mechanical drying may cause additional shrinkage, distortion, or accelerated color loss.
After washing, remove the jacket promptly, gently reshape the body, collar, sleeves, cuffs, and waistband, and allow it to dry completely. Do not place the wet garment directly against other clothing, fabric products, furniture, automobile upholstery, or other absorbent surfaces.
The use of mild detergent and cool or cold water is recommended for preserving the denim's color and minimizing unnecessary dimensional change.
Care Instructions:
Machine wash in water at or below 86°F (30°C) using a gentle cycle.
Do not use chlorine bleach or non-chlorine oxygen bleach.
Do not tumble dry.
Line dry in the shade.
Iron at low temperature with a pressing cloth placed between the iron and the garment.
Professional dry cleaning using petroleum-based solvents only; gentle process.
Important Information:
*Inventory is shared with our physical retail store. As a result, online stock availability may not always be updated in real time.
*Although an item may appear to be available when an order is placed, it may occasionally have already sold out due to the timing of an in-store or online purchase. We appreciate your understanding.
*All garment measurements are taken by hand with the item laid flat, using a measuring tape.
*Because of normal variations between individual garments and differences in the measuring process, the actual measurements may vary slightly from those listed.
*Actual product colors may appear slightly different from the photographs depending on the lighting conditions during photography, your monitor or device, screen brightness, color calibration, and other display settings.
